More New Zealand

Monday, November 20, 2006

Arieh here. We are now in Rotorua, N.I. and have had a good week in weather and activities. In addition to driving the winding roads of the eastern side of the N.I., we had a wonderful tour of Napier, got pretty wet (finally, some rain) in Wellington, finally went to shul outside of N.A. and have moved back northward on the way back to Auckland.

Napier is a small city on the East coast of the N.I. on Hawkes Bay. It is the centre of one of the wine producing areas of NZ, similar to Napa Valley in California and has great weather. Napier is also famous as the Art Deco city of the world. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, over 100 people lost their lives and it was completely rebuilt in TWO years. Four architectural firms oversaw the construction and thousands of people were working at the "height" of the Great Depression. It is something to see (pictures to come). While we were in L.A., we walked around Westwood and they still have some Art Deco buildings (mostly theatres), but this is a whole downtown preserved. The buildings are also built to last as Napier is still in an earthquake zone. Napier was also the first time we bit the bullet and stayed in a Youth Hostel. Quite different from the last time I used them in Europe in 1972. People our age are allowed in, not just "yutes"; one can stay inside all day and not have to leave and come back to the YH; no more breakfast included; double and family rooms available with or without ensuite bath; recognition of driving and coupons for parking offered; laundry facilities offered; cooking facilities and food storage available. Quite pleasant really.

From Napier we drove down to Wellington and was it windy or what? However, the crazy Wellingtonians were walking around without coats thinking that because it is late spring it must be warm. They were wrong. Later that evening we also saw that there were many people sitting outside restaurants or bars in the blowing wind. We quickly figured out that they are doing that because they are smoking and not allowed to do so inside. But no one was wearing coats--the women were in sleeveless dresses and the men were wearing shirts only (with pants). Wellington has the Te Papau museum which is built on "raised on earthquake land". NZers have invented a new way to stablize and protect buildings during earthquakes. As its premier museum, the Te Papau museum is built on these contraptions. Essentially, the building sits on rubber blocks (big ones) reinforced with lead. All you scientists will know that lead is flexible, etc. and is good for this sort of thing. The parliament buildings, which were damaged in a fire in 1992, were renovated and also put on these rubber blocks. The other highpoint of Wellington was going to shul. Two different ones--Orthodox on Friday night and Progressive (Reform) on Shabbat morning. Quite interesting. The Orthodox shul was mostly men, a multitude of siddurim and the requisite mumbling for the Mincha service. However, for the Kabbalat Shabbat service, there was surprisingly a lot of singing and much of it similar to what we do at HBT. (The Rabbi later mentioned something about a Karlebach service). The service was also led by two of the regulars, but certainly not "staff". The attendees for the most part were veteran NZers and quite a few visiting Israelis--there were about 35 men and women all told. While it was obvious we were visiting (and there were others), I was kind of surprised that no one really spoke to us except one older NZer who was there early with us. And no one asked what our dinner plans were. In the end, we had dinner with an Israeli and German woman who had just moved to Wellington to live and work one week before and they were clearly in the same boat as us. We had a lovely Indian dinner. The next day we went to the Progressive shul (which broke away from the Orthodox in the mid-1950s). The siddur was a photocopied experimental version--first time being used--and the Rabbi happened to be at a regional convention in Australia. The leader was a lay leader and I think the Chazzanit was pretty new. LOTS of singing and many identical niggunim as at HBT. One interesting additon to their "siddur" was the inclusion and reading of the 10 Commandments. Nice touch. The Torah was read, not chanted, and the reader clearly didn't understand what she was reading. Haftorah was read in English. Haggbah was pretty good, but he didn't extend the scroll--no 7 columns to see! Fortunately, no one asked me to do anything and I didn't goof up.

Time to post this without pictures. The demands of the readers are overwhelming us.

People and wildlife in New Zealand

Val here -

I could not write about New Zealand without talking about the wonderful people we have met - and oh, yes, - other wildlife we've seen on this small but vast and slow - travelling North Island.

Yes, it can be slow and quiet in the small towns. You have to realize that there are only 4,000,000 people living in New Zealand - so it is amazing that they have a national acquarium, museum, and untold numbers of nature reserves. Yes, sometimes you can wait hours (to forever) to get coffee after a meal (perhaps there's a reason that tipping is part of the culture in other parts of the world) - but the fact that the person next to you starts chatting and invites you to their house for coffee makes up for it many times over. New Zealanders are wonderfully friendly and accepting people - and we've enjoyed every hour here.

People:

We started with a great visit with Maureen and Terry Lister. They were the couple who, on the basis of an hour's conversation over dinner and drinks (at the Beachside Hotel in Fiji - excellent cuisine!) - decided that Arieh and I should have the best holiday possible in New Zealand. Maureen and Terry met us at the airport with hugs and borrowed car (their car holds only 2 people) - and took us home to feed and pamper us. We spent the night at their home, moving out only to accomodate their son and family who were visiting from Melbourne, Australia. so that we would not feel abandoned at all - they gave us the key to their "bach" or holiday house - (as well as the key to their house) and sent us on our way with advice to enjoy their wonderful country. (Which we are!) we discovered Waihi (pronounce wha hee) and Waihi Beach. Not only that, we had a wonderful dinner at the RSA which serves beautiful roasts at low prices - but only the locals know about them.

Then to Whagamata...

Then we went to the wonderfully welcoming Sue and Tom Rawson. I worked with Sue at Oak Park Junior High School from 1974 to 1976 (we think) and we had great fun together then. We acted in staff plays together, went to Quebec together for Carnaval, and picketed together during the 1975 OSSTF teachers' strike. It was as if we'd never been apart. I had met Tom on several occasions - and visited Tom and Sue in 1978 - so I felt so very comfortable in their home with them. Both Sue and Tom are retired - but Sue works afternoons with a real estate company, and Tom drives cab two evenings a week and drives the school/transit bus every morning and afternoon. They live in Whangamata (pronounced Fang - a - maw- taw) on the west coast near a gorgeous beach in their newly built house. We had a fabulous walk along the beach with Sue, Tom, and Bella, the Jack Russell. Tom was unable to come with us - but Sue, Arieh and I spent a wonderful day exploring the Corumundel peninsula - the highlight being our stop in Hot Water Beach to dig holes in the thermal sand to make warm pools to bathe in. The cold water came in from the sea - but we were warm (sort of) as we sat in our pools, the wind howling and the rain dripping around us! What fun it was! Sue and Tom are two friends who have found the place they love and enjoy both work and play!

The hospitality we've experienced did not end in Auckland and Whangamata! We were warmly welcomed by Ron and Sue Janes of Wairoa - (pronounced wie- ro- a), transplanted Canadians. We went to their bach with them and enjoyed the lovely view of the beach below and the great harvest (peas and strawberries) of the garden above. We had a delicious lunch - then off to visit their friends Roz and Michael. This couple had just won 1,000,000 sky miles (like air miles) and were delighted with the prospect of travel despite three young children and a large cattle farm to run. Roz was excited beyond belief. We then went to dinner at Liz and Bob's - met the teacher contingent of Wairoa - and enjoyed a delicious meal and lovely company with their son Greg, Judy - the home economics teacher, and Ron and Sue. We played crokinole (yes!- in New Zealand), a lot of laughts, a variety of wines, then went home to the Janes house. Ron and Sue's warmth and hospitality, and their knowledge of the medical system and the area made it a wonderful visit. and best of all - they shared their friends.

We also had dinner with a wonderful young couple we found in the National Aquarium in Napier. Cameron and Sarah are from Kamloops and had bought a camper to explore New Zealand for a month. They had already spent time in Australia. They made us understand why meeting Canadians is a homey experience - they knew Vancouver and Toronto and we could discuss the lack of attributes of Fort McMurray where Cameron worked for a while. I hope that Cam soon pursues his interest in studying dentistry and that Sarah becomes a fire fighter.

Well, we were sitting in the only cafe open in Masterton (southern North Island) and drinking coffee when a woman sitting next to us tentatively asked "where are you from?". We started a conversation and could not believe that these Kiwis (historically Scots/English) could have so much in common with us. They had recently returned from a holiday in Samoa (we'd been in Fiji) and have two grown sons. Moreover, Ian Gunn had been studying at the Hebrew University at the same time as Arieh was there. Both have an interest in Geography. Jean is in education and develops curriculum. They are inverterate travellers in that Ian worked (Jean usually accompanying him) in Ethiiopia, Iran, Borneo, Saudi Arabia. Ian is a Hydraulic Geologist. What a wonderful discussion we had when we were invited to their home to drink coffee! They had just come back from Samoa and also have two grown sons. What a surprise when we met them the next day after our walk through Bruce Mountain wildlife sanctuary. They decided to check if we were there!. What great conversations we had with the Gunns who've enjoyed wonderful adventures at home and around the world.

New Zealand Rocks!

Monday, November 13, 2006

Arieh here. We are in Napier, North Island, New Zealand on the East coast of the island. We just spent a lovely day driving a grand total of 110 KM from Wairoa to Napier. After a Noon departure from the gracious hospitality of Rhonda's friends, Ron and Sue Janes, we stopped at a bird wildlife sanctuary and walk around a bit. Black swans, mallards, some kind of beige duck, and a few other different birds were the order of the day.

Arrived here around 3PM to our pre-booked Youth Hostel twin room--doubles were not available. Because of the very poor lunch we had on the road we were forced to go straight away to a coffee and scone (pronounced "scon") break. No clotted cream (that came the next day), but the butter was good. We have been in N.Z. one week now and have rented a 1995 Corolla car for $13 CDN/day, bought our air tickets to Sydney, Adelaide, Perth and Bali, driven 1000 KM, and picked up one Swedish hitchhiker. We have also decided to forego the South Island and stick to the North Island only and that is because of the driving conditions (more later).

The major comment on N.Z. is not all the geographic beauty, which it has from rolling hills (with or without trees) to planted forests to beautiful beaches. What sticks out is the hospitality of the people. It is simply astounding and almost overwhelming (in a good way). Many of you know that Val and I have an "open door" policy. We are rank amateurs compared to the Kiwis we have met. One couple, the Listers from Auckland, we met in Fiji at one of our hotels. The morning after having dinner with them they invited us to stay with them in Auckland AND use their beach cottage for as long a we wanted. We were in e-mail contact before we left Fiji and they met us at the airport in Auckland, we stayed with them, and the next day we were on our way down to their beachside cottage, by ourselves. The same day, in a cafe, the owner offered us the use of his behind-the-counter computer for some Internet searching. After that he then offered us the use of his cell phone--all unsolicited; it just came up in conversation and the offers extended. (As an aside, all those worry-warts who told us we NEEDED a cell phone---you are all crazy! This piece of hardware is useless, even though it will work anywhere in the world). The third instance is the warm welcome accorded by the Janes and their friends. Remember we have never met the Janes--he is a "friend of a friend". Not only did they open their house to us, their friends ensured we were royally treated at dinner time. (Many of them were teachers and Val probably could have landed a job in Wairoa if she had wanted to).

The second major comment about NZ is about the driving conditions. The drivers are fine and seem safe and logical (unlike in Fiji). However, the roads are a different story. They are mostly "sealed" (paved). Some of them go through gorges--gorgeous gorges, very narrow and winding and hence slower. They also only seem to have white broken "passing" lines down the centre. In other words, go ahead and pass if you dare--the decision is yours without guidance from the Ministry of Transportation. Fortunately, there are not a lot of cars on these roads. Of course, driving on the "wrong" side of the road took some adjustments (Val is still walking around to the driver's side thinking it is the passenger's side of the car) and requires much more attention on my part. All this adds up to staying on the N.I. and spending less time driving in the car and more time in Wellington, Rotorua and Auckland. The revised schedule will also allow us to be in Wellington and Auckland on Fridays and Saturdays and experience shul in both cities.

In addition to meeting all these hospitable and friendly Kiwis and seeing some interesting scenery, we have also had some different experiences. One outstanding event was to go to the "hot water beach", dig a hole in the sand at low tide and sit in the hot thermal water while it was raining slightly. Bear in mind, this was not only us, but about another 40 to 50 other crazy people--most of them local islanders.
One other memorable event was watching the sunrise. This time (5:30AM) the sun was rising from the Pacific Ocean (1st time for me to see that) into a cloudless sky AND there was not ring of brown (air pollution) on the horizon. Think about that a minute. By the way, if one sails east from here the next piece of land is.....Chile. Finally, the picture of the person running on the beach is NOT me!

Back in Nadi, Fiji

Sunday, November 5, 2006

Arieh here. The colours here are SO boring--every shade of green you can imagine and no brown at all! If I see any brown it is a roadway cut through a hill and that's almost or about to be overgrown with vegetation--green, of course. All sorts of hardwood trees--many of which I have no idea what they are called. We did see a freshly-cut Mahogany tree. It was being used for building a shed. (In North America Mahogany is only used for furniture, interior work or on sailing vessels--it is very expensive wood.) On the largest island of Viti Levu we saw Coconut and Date Palm trees. Other than looking at the top, can also see the difference in the bark. Interestingly, we have not seen Date Palm trees on the other two large island of Vanua Levu and Taveuni. The Palm trees do sway in the wind just like in the movies. In California, drier upper branches of the Giant Redwoods sometimes fall straight down at a high velocity. The loggers called them "widow makers". In Fiji, one just needs to watch for falling coconuts and Palm fronds (branches). We have yet to hear of any fatalities.
Yesterday, on the way from Suva back to Nadi, we stopped at Sigatoka to see the Sigatoka Sand Dunes park. These are on the south coast (Coral Coast) of Viti Levu. This area is recepient of strong S.E. Trade winds blowing from....the South East. The beach here is black sand, so called because it is created from iron. Not chunks of iron, but rather earth with iron in it that is swept out to sea by rainwater wearing down the nearby hills. These deposits are then further worn down by the sea and eventually get thrown back to land as "black" sand (White sand beaches are from Sandstone). The thing with black sand beaches is that they get really, really hot to sit or walk on (because of the iron heating up), So.... there is a nice trail around the Sigatoka Sand Dunes and part of it goes up a sand dune, a relatively short, but steep sand dune. (picture) We did start on the walk together. However, it was about 2PM and hot. Val decided to go back through the Mahogany forest grove (planted in the 1960s to stabilize the sand dunes (picture). I was going on for another 30 minute walk. She made the right choice a the base of this sand dune. I looked at it and decided that walking up in my Mephisto sandals (Ron White, take note) was not going to cut it. I removed them (chalutzti na'alieem) and preceded to run up. Unfortunately I got only 1/2 way up and the heat on my feet was too much. Down I ran to the path with grass and sandals back on. I then stood there for a little while trying to come up with an intelligent solution. The view was great and the dune was "shorter than it looked" (according to the trail guide). Perhaps put water on my feet and try running again? No. Perhaps go back? No. Perhaps run on the sparse vegetation on the side? Prickly looking. Solution, Taurus that I am?? I ran again! Made it up and quickly put my sandals back on--was that hot or what? The remainder of the 30-minute walk was beautiful and fairly "uneventful". 1/2 of it was spent trudging on compacted, but still hot sand and 1/2 in the forest grove. Yes, I would do it again--perhaps with closed shoes.