March 17, 2007
Bangkok, Thailand
Arieh here. We are back in Bangkok. Next stop Burma (Myanmar) on March 20th and then maybe on to India, if we can get a visa in good time.
Last night we celebrated Shabbat here at Chabad House. They have a VERY big presence here in Thailand and, I suspect, in other cities in this part of the world. Services began at 6:20 PM. Separate for male and female. Very big michitzah for the women behind the men. Lots of male daveners and mostly Israeli. In fact, the whole service was geared to Israelis. I found that kind of surprising, but when 90% of the audience is from Israel I guess that makes sense.
The service was Orthodox and the tunes were essentially non-existent in that there was really only one. It was more like an up and down way of reading with some emphasis on some words at particular times. Not a lot of variation, but easy to pick up. At times I would stop following the service and look around at the men. Mostly young. Most of them wearing the kippah provided by Chabad House, Thailand (black). 20% of the men weren't really that comfortable being there. Many of the others, in my opinion, were not what one would call "Orthodox". I say that because I am assuming that those wearing the black kippah provided did not have their own while travelling and therefore were not that Orthodox. However, many of those were very comfortable with the service. I found that striking. Either they used to be observant or they got a thorough education on davening. Val said there were about 15 women in the women's section for davening.
After services, dinner. For dinner, there were about 200 people. Most of them, I am sure, did not preregister (we arrived at 3 PM and did not preregister) yet there was plenty of food and places. Chabad House was very organized. Singing first, Kiddush, Motzi, and eating. More singing, a Drash, and then we left (before Birkat HaMazon--oy!). Glad we went; nice to be with the tribe.
March 19, 2007
Off to Burma tomorrow. Poor to bad internet connections.
Friday, March 16, 2007
Thursday, March 15, 2007
Trekking in Laos (by Sue R)
March 14, 2007
Luang Prabang, Laos
In case anyone is wondering, we've spent our two weeks in Laos with our wonderful friend, Sue R. G. Yaron was kind enough to lend her to us. (See the entry "Two wives in Laos").
Here's Sue's blog contribution (with a few changes and additions by Val). Pictures to follow on this posting.
We are back from our 2 day trek in the mountainous region east of Luang Prabang in central Laos. Out group was made up of Arieh, Val and I plus three other people: Etta, mother and 23 year old daughter Tamara from Toronto, who live at Avenue Rd. and St. Clair, and the daughter's childhood friend from Switzerland, John Christian. The trek was a little more strenous than I expected (you can say that again says Val!) but it was a wonderful experience. We walked for about 15 km. which was OK for me (Val writes: Did she mention that it was about 30 degrees C. and sometimes at a 45 degree angle?). We stopped in one village for lunch. The open lunch room where we ate doubled as a make-shift classroom for this poor Hmong village. After lunch, we trekked on to a Khmu village for supper and sleeping. The Hmong were the group that aided the U.S. during the Vietnamese war (American war, if you are Vietnamese) and consequently were persecuted by the Laos people. Many became refugees and settled in the US. I remember hearing about their community when we lived in Minneapolis. I finally got my answer to the question who are the Hmong? Our guides were actually 2 Hmongs, the most wonderful young men I ever met in terms of humour and positive attitude to life. They were patient and encouraging guides, good cooks, and we had a great time playing a Thai card game they taught us in the evening. In fact I find all Laotions absolutely wonderful! They smile, they are cheerful and positive, very honest, and most dignified. These people don't take themselves seriously; they have a great sense of humour. I find myself with a smile whenever I interact with them.
We arrived at the Khmu village that was to be our homestay. The kids of the village spent a lot of time just watching us. We would take pictures of them and then we would show them the digital pictures. They laughed and followed us around. The people live very simple lives with dogs, pigs, goats, chickens, and ducks running around in the village. Every dirt floor and the dirt compound is swept completely clean. Garbage is burned. Even some of the pigs tried to used the toilets and shower (cold) when the doors weren't closed. The school consists of 2 rooms, one for the higher grades and the other for lower ones. Picure 2 rooms in thatched huts with dirt floors, long benches and a whiteboard at the front. Some looked like the school we saw at Pioneer Village but much more primitive. In the evening the generator would start and work from 6 to 9 in the evening. This was a village with no electricity. Then the music started and the children danced with us. They all laughed as we showed them the macarena. After the music stopped , our guides made us supper. The children watched as we masticated, giggling and commenting on those funny Europeans. An evening activity was planned for them by the village: many of them gathered in one room to watch a movie. Although many of the villages we have visited have dirt floors and thatched roofs, there is always a satellite dish. This seems a bizarre contrast to their very simple life. After sleeping in dormitory style accomodations with hard mattresses dividers constructed of bamboo and protected from mosquitos by nets, we awoke to a wonderful breakfast made by our giudes. This was followed by a 2 hour hike down the mountain and then a three hour kayak down the Khan River. We arrived back in Luang Prabang by about 3 pm tired but happy.
Arieh here. Today we returned to Luang Prabang after a two-day hiking and kayak trip. The first day was 15 KM of hiking mostly in hot sun. It was kind of tough on Val but she made it to 800 metres above sea level from our 400 metre startng point. We then went down to about 500 and stopped at a village for overnight.
The village, unlike the others we have seen around LP, was very UNtouristed. No roads in; only paths. They had electricity with a generator that ran from 6 to 9 PM only. Many of the villagers were crowded around one of the big TVs in the village watching a movie. Payment for them was $0.05 per person. We actually were able to have a "private" shower (unlike the villagers who shower around an outdoor pump). The water was cold and came out of a tube. It was actually really quite enjoyable after the 15 KM of hiking. Sleeping was dorm style (Val and I had our own 2-person section) and with mosquito nets. The two guides (for 6 of us) carried the food and extra water. We carried water and sleepng bags and our day pack. The guides cooked. The second day was spent walking about 2 hours and then kayaking and swimming for about 3 hours. Very shallow river and very little current helping us. Hard on the arms today, but not very strenuous on legs or heart. A good day and back to our hotel by about 3:30 PM.
The other 3 people were actually good folk from Toronto and Switzerland (Mother, daughter and friend). We then met for coffee at 6 PM at a great bakery and Val and I received good pointers about India from the daughter and friend.
Luang Prabang, Laos
In case anyone is wondering, we've spent our two weeks in Laos with our wonderful friend, Sue R. G. Yaron was kind enough to lend her to us. (See the entry "Two wives in Laos").
Here's Sue's blog contribution (with a few changes and additions by Val). Pictures to follow on this posting.
We are back from our 2 day trek in the mountainous region east of Luang Prabang in central Laos. Out group was made up of Arieh, Val and I plus three other people: Etta, mother and 23 year old daughter Tamara from Toronto, who live at Avenue Rd. and St. Clair, and the daughter's childhood friend from Switzerland, John Christian. The trek was a little more strenous than I expected (you can say that again says Val!) but it was a wonderful experience. We walked for about 15 km. which was OK for me (Val writes: Did she mention that it was about 30 degrees C. and sometimes at a 45 degree angle?). We stopped in one village for lunch. The open lunch room where we ate doubled as a make-shift classroom for this poor Hmong village. After lunch, we trekked on to a Khmu village for supper and sleeping. The Hmong were the group that aided the U.S. during the Vietnamese war (American war, if you are Vietnamese) and consequently were persecuted by the Laos people. Many became refugees and settled in the US. I remember hearing about their community when we lived in Minneapolis. I finally got my answer to the question who are the Hmong? Our guides were actually 2 Hmongs, the most wonderful young men I ever met in terms of humour and positive attitude to life. They were patient and encouraging guides, good cooks, and we had a great time playing a Thai card game they taught us in the evening. In fact I find all Laotions absolutely wonderful! They smile, they are cheerful and positive, very honest, and most dignified. These people don't take themselves seriously; they have a great sense of humour. I find myself with a smile whenever I interact with them.
We arrived at the Khmu village that was to be our homestay. The kids of the village spent a lot of time just watching us. We would take pictures of them and then we would show them the digital pictures. They laughed and followed us around. The people live very simple lives with dogs, pigs, goats, chickens, and ducks running around in the village. Every dirt floor and the dirt compound is swept completely clean. Garbage is burned. Even some of the pigs tried to used the toilets and shower (cold) when the doors weren't closed. The school consists of 2 rooms, one for the higher grades and the other for lower ones. Picure 2 rooms in thatched huts with dirt floors, long benches and a whiteboard at the front. Some looked like the school we saw at Pioneer Village but much more primitive. In the evening the generator would start and work from 6 to 9 in the evening. This was a village with no electricity. Then the music started and the children danced with us. They all laughed as we showed them the macarena. After the music stopped , our guides made us supper. The children watched as we masticated, giggling and commenting on those funny Europeans. An evening activity was planned for them by the village: many of them gathered in one room to watch a movie. Although many of the villages we have visited have dirt floors and thatched roofs, there is always a satellite dish. This seems a bizarre contrast to their very simple life. After sleeping in dormitory style accomodations with hard mattresses dividers constructed of bamboo and protected from mosquitos by nets, we awoke to a wonderful breakfast made by our giudes. This was followed by a 2 hour hike down the mountain and then a three hour kayak down the Khan River. We arrived back in Luang Prabang by about 3 pm tired but happy.
Arieh here. Today we returned to Luang Prabang after a two-day hiking and kayak trip. The first day was 15 KM of hiking mostly in hot sun. It was kind of tough on Val but she made it to 800 metres above sea level from our 400 metre startng point. We then went down to about 500 and stopped at a village for overnight.
The village, unlike the others we have seen around LP, was very UNtouristed. No roads in; only paths. They had electricity with a generator that ran from 6 to 9 PM only. Many of the villagers were crowded around one of the big TVs in the village watching a movie. Payment for them was $0.05 per person. We actually were able to have a "private" shower (unlike the villagers who shower around an outdoor pump). The water was cold and came out of a tube. It was actually really quite enjoyable after the 15 KM of hiking. Sleeping was dorm style (Val and I had our own 2-person section) and with mosquito nets. The two guides (for 6 of us) carried the food and extra water. We carried water and sleepng bags and our day pack. The guides cooked. The second day was spent walking about 2 hours and then kayaking and swimming for about 3 hours. Very shallow river and very little current helping us. Hard on the arms today, but not very strenuous on legs or heart. A good day and back to our hotel by about 3:30 PM.
The other 3 people were actually good folk from Toronto and Switzerland (Mother, daughter and friend). We then met for coffee at 6 PM at a great bakery and Val and I received good pointers about India from the daughter and friend.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
SPECIAL POSTING FOR MICHELLE FROM CALIFORNIA
March 14, 2007
Hey, Michelle (from California). We, of course, remember you. However, we cannot contact you by e-mail as you did not send us an e-mail!!!!!
Please send a message to the e-mail address we gave you.
Arieh
Hey, Michelle (from California). We, of course, remember you. However, we cannot contact you by e-mail as you did not send us an e-mail!!!!!
Please send a message to the e-mail address we gave you.
Arieh
Saturday, March 10, 2007
TWO (2) Wives in Laos
March 9, 2007
Luang Prabang, Laos
Arieh here. As I wrote we arrived here a few days ago--me and my two wives (see picture of previous post). Our good friend, Sue R., joined us in Vientiane (only 24 hours late). If I thought travelling with only one wife was a challenge, I should have known better. Trying to get two women to do what I want is far more difficult than pulling the wool over one set of eyes. The Lao people think this is really quite funny--me travelling with two wives. Some have offered me a third wife from Laos; some look sorry for me. Sue has been quick to point out to one and all that she is not Wife Number Two (WNT). Val (WNO) is quite serene and secure in her demeanor and position and I keep milking this for all it is worth.
Whatever Sue's status it has been a lot of fun travelling with her. She has provided a fresh set of eyes to our two pair of well-travelled eyes. We set off one day on a walking tour of LP and, by golly, we were going to see every pagoda and stupa listed or the day would be a failure. Val's wanting to stop for a coffee break after only one hour of walking was met with a look of astonishment and disbelief on the part of WNT. Thankfully, WNO prevailed for I was ready to stop as well.
We have successfully recovered from our unexpected itinerary change and have had a lot of fun here in LP. Two full days of trips on the Mekong have compensated us for missing out on the two days we would have had from the Thai border. In fact, the two days on the Mekong around LP were probably better--we were able to stop at sights around town and the 3 of us were in control of our boat. (see picture) We also met some people who did the trip we missed. There were more than 40 on the boat and one woman gave birth on one of the days. Life on the Mekong is very different here than in the Delta (Vietnam). Much less populated, quite mountainous (albeit hazy from the "slash and burn" rice field-clearing technique), and more kids and adults playing or washing by the riverside.
We even stopped for a photo-op with some kids bringing the water buffalo back home. The kids were standing ("look, mom, no hands") on the back of the water buffalo as the water buffalo walked.
One of our stops was at a pottery making village. We were able to walk around, visit (albeit not able to communicate) with the locals and try our hand at some potter making. The whole family is involved in whatever a particular family does. Kids mush the clay, parents do the real big jobs, kids help show the tourists and then try to earn a little pocket money by selling some of their own little creations.
The sunsets are really quite different here at this time of year and in this part of Laos. We have been sitting at restaurants about 30 metres above the level of the Mekong and watching the sun set. Around 5:30 (both here and in Vientiane) the sun is a red ball and then disappears into the haze not to be seen until the next morning. The odd part is that it disappears about 60 minutes worth of time ABOVE the horizon. The sunrises are the reverse. The sun finally breaks through the haze around 8 AM, well after sunrise.
Finally, Luang Prabang has a great outdoor night market. Everything produced in the area is brought in every night and sold to anyone willing to walk up and down the main street. With the warm weather, it is quite a nice idea.
Luang Prabang, Laos
Arieh here. As I wrote we arrived here a few days ago--me and my two wives (see picture of previous post). Our good friend, Sue R., joined us in Vientiane (only 24 hours late). If I thought travelling with only one wife was a challenge, I should have known better. Trying to get two women to do what I want is far more difficult than pulling the wool over one set of eyes. The Lao people think this is really quite funny--me travelling with two wives. Some have offered me a third wife from Laos; some look sorry for me. Sue has been quick to point out to one and all that she is not Wife Number Two (WNT). Val (WNO) is quite serene and secure in her demeanor and position and I keep milking this for all it is worth.
Whatever Sue's status it has been a lot of fun travelling with her. She has provided a fresh set of eyes to our two pair of well-travelled eyes. We set off one day on a walking tour of LP and, by golly, we were going to see every pagoda and stupa listed or the day would be a failure. Val's wanting to stop for a coffee break after only one hour of walking was met with a look of astonishment and disbelief on the part of WNT. Thankfully, WNO prevailed for I was ready to stop as well.
We have successfully recovered from our unexpected itinerary change and have had a lot of fun here in LP. Two full days of trips on the Mekong have compensated us for missing out on the two days we would have had from the Thai border. In fact, the two days on the Mekong around LP were probably better--we were able to stop at sights around town and the 3 of us were in control of our boat. (see picture) We also met some people who did the trip we missed. There were more than 40 on the boat and one woman gave birth on one of the days. Life on the Mekong is very different here than in the Delta (Vietnam). Much less populated, quite mountainous (albeit hazy from the "slash and burn" rice field-clearing technique), and more kids and adults playing or washing by the riverside.
We even stopped for a photo-op with some kids bringing the water buffalo back home. The kids were standing ("look, mom, no hands") on the back of the water buffalo as the water buffalo walked.
One of our stops was at a pottery making village. We were able to walk around, visit (albeit not able to communicate) with the locals and try our hand at some potter making. The whole family is involved in whatever a particular family does. Kids mush the clay, parents do the real big jobs, kids help show the tourists and then try to earn a little pocket money by selling some of their own little creations.
The sunsets are really quite different here at this time of year and in this part of Laos. We have been sitting at restaurants about 30 metres above the level of the Mekong and watching the sun set. Around 5:30 (both here and in Vientiane) the sun is a red ball and then disappears into the haze not to be seen until the next morning. The odd part is that it disappears about 60 minutes worth of time ABOVE the horizon. The sunrises are the reverse. The sun finally breaks through the haze around 8 AM, well after sunrise.
Finally, Luang Prabang has a great outdoor night market. Everything produced in the area is brought in every night and sold to anyone willing to walk up and down the main street. With the warm weather, it is quite a nice idea.
Flying in Laos
March 6, 2007
Vientiane, Laos (more accurately--on the plane to Houei Xai).
Arieh here. We made it to Laos (DON'T pronounce the "s")--the home of the Plain of Jars, the CIA's "Secret War" in the 1960s and 70s, and a very different lifestyle compared to Vietnam. According to our Lonely Planet guidebook, if whatever the Lao people are doing does not include the concept of "muan" (fun) then it it not a great idea. This manifests itself in the closing of shops for an hour at lunch, the closing of stores at 5PM and the closing of restaurants around 9 or 10PM (in the capital city, no less!). In VN, everything is open from early AM to late PM. In fact, there is another quote from LP that is kind of funny (but not so complimentary): "The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch the rice grow, and the Lao people listen to the rice grow.". The other huge and noticeable difference between Laos and VN is traffic. In Laos there are many less people, cars and "motos". The driving style is also extremely different in that the horn is not used as a replacement for brakes, the drivers slow down for pedestrians when they are crossing the street, and the drivers actually look over their shoulder before changing lanes.
I wrote at the beginning of this entry that we were flying on the way to Houei Xai. This is a border town across from Thailand in the Northwest of Laos. It is a 1-hour flight. We were flying there (one way) so we could take a boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang (a UNESCO-designated heritage town), be in LP for 3 or 4 days and then take 2 days getting back to Vientiane before flying on to Bangkok. Sounds pretty simple and organized, right? WRONG. First we couldn't get on the flight for Tuesday, 9AM (there are only 3 flights per week). Our choices were to fly "standby" (needed 3 seats, no less) or reverse direction, go overland and fly back. Off to the airport we went at 7 AM and, wonders never cease, by 8 AM we were told we could board the flight. Which we did. We flew all the way to Houei Xai and back again WITHOUT landing. Too much haze and not enough radar, apparently. So, back to Vientiane by 10 AM. "Come back at 1 PM" they say to us. Off we go for breakfast (no food was provided on the flight) and we show up at 1 PM. When does the flight leave? Maybe Wednesday morning. What do we do? We change plans--we fly to LP at 13:40 and all is well. We actually do land.
And guess who was on the plane with us? Some "guy" got on the plane last, sat near the rear (just in front of the 3 of us) and was accorded special treatment both on the plane and upon arrival (off first and met with an entourage and car on the tarmac). Turns out it was the President of Laos (according to the flight attendant), well-liked by the "people", and travelling as one of us. It was quite unbelievable (compared to Western-style PMs and Presidents), but just part of life in Laos. The other curiosity about our 13:40 flight was that it was full. That's because the 12:15 flight was cancelled and those passengers were combined with ours to make for a more economically viable run. Obviously, any student of economics could tell you that a full flight is better than 2 half-empty flights, n'est-ce pas?
Vientiane, Laos (more accurately--on the plane to Houei Xai).
Arieh here. We made it to Laos (DON'T pronounce the "s")--the home of the Plain of Jars, the CIA's "Secret War" in the 1960s and 70s, and a very different lifestyle compared to Vietnam. According to our Lonely Planet guidebook, if whatever the Lao people are doing does not include the concept of "muan" (fun) then it it not a great idea. This manifests itself in the closing of shops for an hour at lunch, the closing of stores at 5PM and the closing of restaurants around 9 or 10PM (in the capital city, no less!). In VN, everything is open from early AM to late PM. In fact, there is another quote from LP that is kind of funny (but not so complimentary): "The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch the rice grow, and the Lao people listen to the rice grow.". The other huge and noticeable difference between Laos and VN is traffic. In Laos there are many less people, cars and "motos". The driving style is also extremely different in that the horn is not used as a replacement for brakes, the drivers slow down for pedestrians when they are crossing the street, and the drivers actually look over their shoulder before changing lanes.
I wrote at the beginning of this entry that we were flying on the way to Houei Xai. This is a border town across from Thailand in the Northwest of Laos. It is a 1-hour flight. We were flying there (one way) so we could take a boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang (a UNESCO-designated heritage town), be in LP for 3 or 4 days and then take 2 days getting back to Vientiane before flying on to Bangkok. Sounds pretty simple and organized, right? WRONG. First we couldn't get on the flight for Tuesday, 9AM (there are only 3 flights per week). Our choices were to fly "standby" (needed 3 seats, no less) or reverse direction, go overland and fly back. Off to the airport we went at 7 AM and, wonders never cease, by 8 AM we were told we could board the flight. Which we did. We flew all the way to Houei Xai and back again WITHOUT landing. Too much haze and not enough radar, apparently. So, back to Vientiane by 10 AM. "Come back at 1 PM" they say to us. Off we go for breakfast (no food was provided on the flight) and we show up at 1 PM. When does the flight leave? Maybe Wednesday morning. What do we do? We change plans--we fly to LP at 13:40 and all is well. We actually do land.
And guess who was on the plane with us? Some "guy" got on the plane last, sat near the rear (just in front of the 3 of us) and was accorded special treatment both on the plane and upon arrival (off first and met with an entourage and car on the tarmac). Turns out it was the President of Laos (according to the flight attendant), well-liked by the "people", and travelling as one of us. It was quite unbelievable (compared to Western-style PMs and Presidents), but just part of life in Laos. The other curiosity about our 13:40 flight was that it was full. That's because the 12:15 flight was cancelled and those passengers were combined with ours to make for a more economically viable run. Obviously, any student of economics could tell you that a full flight is better than 2 half-empty flights, n'est-ce pas?
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Halong Bay, Viet Nam
March 1, 2007
Halong Bay, Vietnam
Val here.
Well - Arieh and I needed a vacation from our holiday, so we took an absolutely gorgeous three-day tour to an area near Hanoi called Halong Bay. We got on the bus from our hotel hoping the boat would be pleasant and the group of 12 congenial. The time away exceeded all our hopes.Our large boat accomodated 12 people in cosy rooms with window and bathrooms and even hot water (when the generator was on).
We had rainy, cloudy weather but there was ample room to sit and an opportunity to meet the travellers joining our adventure. There was Anglica - a lovely natured and delightful young woman from Munich who worked in the finance industry. Then, Michelle from small town northern California - and so very Californian with her slow quiet voice and her laid back manner. Two young guys from Pickering and Brampton were fun to talk to. An American retired gentleman from near New Orleans was travelling with his Chinese fiancee (she spoke little English, he little Chinese). He willingly discussed the machinations and paperwork of getting his new wife into the States once they got married in China. There was also a French middle aged couple. Then, there was the wonderful Christelle from Lausanne and her French-only speaking mother. These two joined us for the three day trip while the others returned back to Hanoi after one night on the big boat. One activity we shared together was the visist to a cave. It was huge with all the cave structures you could ask for - but because the cave had lights on, the bats had deserted it for some other spot. It was a huge and dramatic cave and we were fascinated. We then returned to the boat. We were brought to a beach where we climbed a hill. I was the only one who swam. It was quite wonderful to swim because the rock formations changed and increased the farther out you swam.After a comfortable night on the boat including delicious meals (and the opportunity to buy pearls at your very table), Christelle, Catherine, Arieh, guide Chien, and I manouevred our way into a small boat and left the others. We cruised to a small village on Cat Bo Island. To get the the village they provided bicycles - but 3 of us opted to take a moto (you jump on a motorcycle with your driver). Arieh and Chien chose to ride bicycles.
After a 20 minute ride we were in the middle of a valley on Cat Bo Island. Not surprisingly, this village is a good place to hide during Viet Nam wars and political turmois because it is so remote. The land is fertile and good for agriculture so we saw rice fields and vegetable fields. There was even a large, muddy pond for farming fresh fish for the community. Each house had a dog, and remote as the town seemed, they had a pool table (although the queues seemed to be broken), a fridge for cold drinks, and a clean W.C.Chien took us on a walk through the town and into the national park where we visited a half-built traditional village with deserted large houses and even a temple of Literature - a place of study. Apparently a wealthy American has a Viet Namese wife and wants to give this fabricated village as a tourist magnet - a traditional village. It was most interesting and I do hope it works out for them. In the meantime, the wife's brother and family live on the property and protect it until the government willingly removes impediments to its completion.
The five of us returned to our boat for a delicious lunch. We then cruised to a different spot near the rock formations and kayaked into a lovely coral area, going through a hole in the rock and into a gorgeous area (see photo).
The sea was calm and the weather cool and comfortable. The overcast skies made the rock formations that surrounded us all the more mysterious and beautiful.
That evening we slept in a hotel at another part of Cat Bo Island and the next day the small boat ferried us to the large boat. Then back to Hanoi. I should mention that much like the land traffic of V. N., the boat traffic and parking was a mess. We had to walk through 4 parked boats to get to the wharf. Ah, Viet Nam!!
That evening we slept in a hotel at another part of Cat Bo Island and the next day the small boat ferried us to the large boat. Then back to Hanoi. I should mention that much like the land traffic of V. N., the boat traffic and parking was a mess. We had to walk through 4 parked boats to get to the wharf. Ah, Viet Nam!!
We couldn't thank Chien enough for his warm and wonderful personality and knowledge. We also enjoyed the company of our new friends Christelle and Catherine and hope to see them again somewhere, sometime. We had so many laughs and such fun beating them in the kayaks (hope they're not reading this...)
The holiday from the holiday is over. A complete success. If Allison is reading this - the tour was organized by the Viet Anh Hotel (our booking elsewhere fell through because of a sick boat) - the price was right and it was an excellent tour. I guess things have changed since you were there.
Now to Laos!
Saturday, February 24, 2007
Cu Chi Tunnels
Val here.
Cu Chi Tunnels - our 1/2 day trip. The brochure reads: "Cu Chi is considered a heroic district for its role in the anti-American war in Viet Nam. It is legendary for its tunnel system of over 220 km and is a popular spot for both Vietnamese and foreign tourists."
Cu Chi Tunnels - our 1/2 day trip. The brochure reads: "Cu Chi is considered a heroic district for its role in the anti-American war in Viet Nam. It is legendary for its tunnel system of over 220 km and is a popular spot for both Vietnamese and foreign tourists."
Arieh chose not to go, so I joined my friend Joseph and took the bus tour to the tunnels. it was fascinating - but for the wrong reasons. I was astonished by the political stance and the ghoulishness of its presentation. It is interesting history - but rewritten.
Over the years, tunnels had been dug so that resistors against the French and later against the South Vietnamese government, could travel, surprise the enemy, and keep themselves safe. We saw the tiny entrance that the Viet Cong resistors crawled through to get into the tunnels. (picture). Anyone with a girth of more than 34 inches would get stuck! (See pictures)
We saw the bigger underground tunnels used for sitting and cooking and sleeping. We were given the chance to crawl through the tunnels to see how it felt ( an intense experience - one Australian woman said).
We also marvelled at the engineering of the three layers of tunnels and their extensiveness.What starteled me (and some otheres) was the video which mentioned nothing about the civil war between the north and the south. It was simply a war of the Vietnamese against America. The video shows Viet Cong heros and heroines - their merit based on how many American soldiers they killed.
After viewing the video, we walked through an area showing the booby traps - camouflaged traps where the soldiers fell through to be pierced by bamboo or metal spikes.
The guide demonstrated six different horrifying examples of how the Viet Cong protected their tunnels and maimed their opponents. All this jollity was accompanied by the sounds of a nearby firing range. For a dollar a bullet, visitors to the sight could shoot an AK47. For a larger sum, you could lob a grenade. Several of the young men in our group took up the challenge. (One young man commented on how frightening it is to have those sounds around you as you shoot. He couldn't imagine listening to the deafening noise for more than 5 minutes.) More goulish yet were the tourists who were encouraged (or chose to) smile and pose near the objects of torture. The best photo op was to smile as you posed near an damaged American tank, ("My G-d," a young British man said quietly, "how can they pose there? That's somebody's grave!") And perhaps most disturbing of all is the fact that there was no anti-war message at all! Cu Chi tunnels is the only historic war location that I have visited that lacked that essential (in my view) opportunity to beg for peace among peoples.
Although we stopped at a fascinating laquerware factory for the diabled on the way back, and saw that despite the defolliation of the area by the Americans the forest has returned - it was, for me, a disturing day.One other thing. Our guide - a man of about 50, mentioned that he had tried to escape from Viet Nam 4 times at the end of that war. He was put into prison for 3 months (he did not say "re-education camp"). There are many edited and untold stories about the "American War" in this country. Perhaps someday the government will permit them to be told.
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Hoi An
February 20, 2007
Hoi An, Vietnam
Arieh here. Hoi An is a small town with a preserved "old" town. It is at the mouth of the ????? river that leads into the South China Sea, just south of Da Nang (which is still south of the DMZ). Apparently it was preserved from destruction by an "agreement" between the different fighting parties here during what is called here the "American" war. It's an old port and has become a centre for silk and tailoring, as well as other items of interest to tourists. Quite picturesque and we spent 4 days here over the TET holiday. The picture of Val is of a courtyards in one of the old houses.
Tet is quite a boisterous affair. Lots of decorations, everything closed for 2-4 days (except restaurants for tourists), and it is a big family holiday. The first night (16th) there were midnight fireworks and they were pretty good. Not quite the "Symphony of Fire" but lots of "oohs" and "aahs". In fact, from our vantage point (less than 30 metres from where they were being fired) it looked like the fireworks were exploding directly above our heads. Fortunately, they either weren't directly overhead or the debris disintegrated before reaching our furry little heads. Thousands of people about, both young and old. One of the other events is the "boats" that people make out of paper (oragami), place a lit candle in the centre of it and then place it in the river and let it float away down the river. Quite pretty to see all the boats floating around bringing people good luck for the new year. Before the fireworks we went out for a special New Year's dinner where they had a very nice buffet and cooked as you ordered. (See pictures).
Two days ago we hooked up with an American couple we met in Nha Trang. (Check out the Para-sailing Lion.)
They are teaching English in China and vacationing in VN. Together we rented a taxi and driver and went to My Son, the site of Champa ruins from the 4th to 11th Century. They were/are similar to those at Angkor Wat (Cambondia) and Bagan (Burma). The Cham people were in this are before the Vietnamese (which means "from the south of China) moved south and absorbed them. The ruins are not in good shape partly because the Viet Cong used them as a staging ground/base for operations and the South Vietnam Army and U.S. then bombed them. Similar problem as in Lebanon and refugee camps used by the Fatah, etc. There is also damage to the ruins due to people being allowed to touch the sandstone carvings and even some tourists climbing past barriers to have a "photo-op". Not a lot of respect for public places here in Asia. We also visited the Marble mountains, a series of outcroppings of .... marble. There are caves in those mountains, pagodas at the top and lots of people climbing all over the place and selling drinks. At the bottom, there were numerous stores selling all sorts of marble items. For a mere $1500 U.S. (shipping included) Val and I could have been the proud owners of a 1.5 metre high water fountain and pedestal. It would have looked great in our living room, but wouldn't let me buy it.
Yesterday (19th) Val took a Vietnames cooking course and I went bicycling. I decided not to worry about my backside and just concentrate on where I was going and who was moving perpendicular to me. Not one collision on my part and I am here writing these words. Hoi An has a beach about 5 KM from town. In no time flat I was there. It was fairly busy (Tet holiday) and I found a shady place under a palm grove. I was with another traveller and while he watched my stuff I went for a swim. When I got back my sarong not only had my friend sitting on it, but also two 16-year old girls as well. They didn't speak much Enlish but were content to "visit" with and look at us. (I guess I still have that old charm that worked so well in the past.) We were then joined by up to 10 other young kids who were quite hapy to sit and stare and have their picture taken with the Westerner.
From the beach I then happily cycled back to town, taking detours out along paths between rice fields, taking pictures of water buffalo swimming in their "pools", stopping to drink water and having a chat with two little kids who said "Hello" and were surpised I answered them and engaged them in conversation, and even getting a little lost in this small town. (As you can see, the "loss" was not permanent). The little sidetrip along the ricefield path was marked by quite a few "water buffalo biscuits"--some fresh and some baked by the sun. I also curtailed the ride along that path when I spotted a pair of water buffalo sitting on the path (they have long sharp horns) and I thought it would be better to turn around.
From Hoi An we took the last leg of our bus ticket (from Saigon) to Hue. The "funny" part of the trip was the fact that we departed at 1:30PM and then spent 1 hour driving around this small town of Hoi An picking up other passengers at their hotels. The whole 140 KM trip took 4.5 hours in total, including a 30 minute rest stop and all the pick ups!
Hoi An, Vietnam
Arieh here. Hoi An is a small town with a preserved "old" town. It is at the mouth of the ????? river that leads into the South China Sea, just south of Da Nang (which is still south of the DMZ). Apparently it was preserved from destruction by an "agreement" between the different fighting parties here during what is called here the "American" war. It's an old port and has become a centre for silk and tailoring, as well as other items of interest to tourists. Quite picturesque and we spent 4 days here over the TET holiday. The picture of Val is of a courtyards in one of the old houses.
Tet is quite a boisterous affair. Lots of decorations, everything closed for 2-4 days (except restaurants for tourists), and it is a big family holiday. The first night (16th) there were midnight fireworks and they were pretty good. Not quite the "Symphony of Fire" but lots of "oohs" and "aahs". In fact, from our vantage point (less than 30 metres from where they were being fired) it looked like the fireworks were exploding directly above our heads. Fortunately, they either weren't directly overhead or the debris disintegrated before reaching our furry little heads. Thousands of people about, both young and old. One of the other events is the "boats" that people make out of paper (oragami), place a lit candle in the centre of it and then place it in the river and let it float away down the river. Quite pretty to see all the boats floating around bringing people good luck for the new year. Before the fireworks we went out for a special New Year's dinner where they had a very nice buffet and cooked as you ordered. (See pictures).
Two days ago we hooked up with an American couple we met in Nha Trang. (Check out the Para-sailing Lion.)
They are teaching English in China and vacationing in VN. Together we rented a taxi and driver and went to My Son, the site of Champa ruins from the 4th to 11th Century. They were/are similar to those at Angkor Wat (Cambondia) and Bagan (Burma). The Cham people were in this are before the Vietnamese (which means "from the south of China) moved south and absorbed them. The ruins are not in good shape partly because the Viet Cong used them as a staging ground/base for operations and the South Vietnam Army and U.S. then bombed them. Similar problem as in Lebanon and refugee camps used by the Fatah, etc. There is also damage to the ruins due to people being allowed to touch the sandstone carvings and even some tourists climbing past barriers to have a "photo-op". Not a lot of respect for public places here in Asia. We also visited the Marble mountains, a series of outcroppings of .... marble. There are caves in those mountains, pagodas at the top and lots of people climbing all over the place and selling drinks. At the bottom, there were numerous stores selling all sorts of marble items. For a mere $1500 U.S. (shipping included) Val and I could have been the proud owners of a 1.5 metre high water fountain and pedestal. It would have looked great in our living room, but wouldn't let me buy it.
Yesterday (19th) Val took a Vietnames cooking course and I went bicycling. I decided not to worry about my backside and just concentrate on where I was going and who was moving perpendicular to me. Not one collision on my part and I am here writing these words. Hoi An has a beach about 5 KM from town. In no time flat I was there. It was fairly busy (Tet holiday) and I found a shady place under a palm grove. I was with another traveller and while he watched my stuff I went for a swim. When I got back my sarong not only had my friend sitting on it, but also two 16-year old girls as well. They didn't speak much Enlish but were content to "visit" with and look at us. (I guess I still have that old charm that worked so well in the past.) We were then joined by up to 10 other young kids who were quite hapy to sit and stare and have their picture taken with the Westerner.
From the beach I then happily cycled back to town, taking detours out along paths between rice fields, taking pictures of water buffalo swimming in their "pools", stopping to drink water and having a chat with two little kids who said "Hello" and were surpised I answered them and engaged them in conversation, and even getting a little lost in this small town. (As you can see, the "loss" was not permanent). The little sidetrip along the ricefield path was marked by quite a few "water buffalo biscuits"--some fresh and some baked by the sun. I also curtailed the ride along that path when I spotted a pair of water buffalo sitting on the path (they have long sharp horns) and I thought it would be better to turn around.
From Hoi An we took the last leg of our bus ticket (from Saigon) to Hue. The "funny" part of the trip was the fact that we departed at 1:30PM and then spent 1 hour driving around this small town of Hoi An picking up other passengers at their hotels. The whole 140 KM trip took 4.5 hours in total, including a 30 minute rest stop and all the pick ups!
Monday, February 19, 2007
Mekong Delta--Phnomh Penh to Saigon
Mekong Delta: Phnom Penh to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)
Day 1 (February 6, 2007)
Our adventure started early in the morning on Tuesday, February 6. A minibus picked us up from our hotel in Phnom Penh. We were that last of the tourists picked up by the bus. The driver lowered the middle (aisle) seats so that we could sit down. There were about 15 tourists in the bus and we felt grateful about how comfortable we were as we watched buses rolling by with Cambodians stuffed into metal seats, hanging out the doors and perched on top of their public buses. Our bus drove us down to a boat. We sailed on a rather rickety boat - the best spot as on the roof if you didn't mind the hot sun on you - down the river to the border crossing. We climbed out of this boat, went to be discharged from Cambodia with a bump of a stamp, then boarded a different boat to continue to Viet Namese immigration. After a check for visas and papers, another full page visa stamp and signature, and we were on our way in to the town of Chau Doc. A question - why are viet Namese boats almost always blue? As we travelled down the Mekong, we saw fisherboats and cargo ships and farmers bringing goods to market in their two-oared dugout wooden rowboats. There is so much life on the Mekong - houseboats, ferry boats, cargo boats, floating fish farms, on and on... We arrived in Chau Doc where most of the travellers departed for their hotel in the town. Arieh and I had opted for the Guesthouse on the mountain so we got a longer boatride and an uncomfortable ride with luggage in a motocyclo to our Guesthouse. The Guesthouse, unfortunaely was not so great - we insisted on the nicer room (but larger) and upset the young receptionist of the hotel. She complied, however- and except for the hard foam mattresses we were fine.
Day 1 (February 6, 2007)
Our adventure started early in the morning on Tuesday, February 6. A minibus picked us up from our hotel in Phnom Penh. We were that last of the tourists picked up by the bus. The driver lowered the middle (aisle) seats so that we could sit down. There were about 15 tourists in the bus and we felt grateful about how comfortable we were as we watched buses rolling by with Cambodians stuffed into metal seats, hanging out the doors and perched on top of their public buses. Our bus drove us down to a boat. We sailed on a rather rickety boat - the best spot as on the roof if you didn't mind the hot sun on you - down the river to the border crossing. We climbed out of this boat, went to be discharged from Cambodia with a bump of a stamp, then boarded a different boat to continue to Viet Namese immigration. After a check for visas and papers, another full page visa stamp and signature, and we were on our way in to the town of Chau Doc. A question - why are viet Namese boats almost always blue? As we travelled down the Mekong, we saw fisherboats and cargo ships and farmers bringing goods to market in their two-oared dugout wooden rowboats. There is so much life on the Mekong - houseboats, ferry boats, cargo boats, floating fish farms, on and on... We arrived in Chau Doc where most of the travellers departed for their hotel in the town. Arieh and I had opted for the Guesthouse on the mountain so we got a longer boatride and an uncomfortable ride with luggage in a motocyclo to our Guesthouse. The Guesthouse, unfortunaely was not so great - we insisted on the nicer room (but larger) and upset the young receptionist of the hotel. She complied, however- and except for the hard foam mattresses we were fine.
Arieh climbed the mountain to see the sunset but had to take a ride on a motorcyle to make it up the hill to be on time for the sunset. He observed that the Vien Namese locals use the mountains for exercise in the evening and early morning. Groups of people are running or walking up and down the great hill.
By 7 in the evening Arieh and I were hungry, and just as we prepared to leave the room the lights went out- a power failure. We walked the short distance to the bottom of the hill and who should be waiting there in the pitch dark but two cyclo drivers - happy, no delighted, to take us to the town of Chau Doc to a restaurant. Away we went - pitch dark in two cyclos (one each) sans any kind of light (is this my husband who insists on helmets and tailights when we ride bicycles?) barrelling down the streets (albeit relatively\n quiet ones) to the Chau Doc restaurant that only our lead driver knew. The seats in the cyclo were narrow and hard, the road bumpy, the traffic increasing, and I was terrified. Arieh, however, was enjoying every minute of it. Who knew where they were taking us? But - we made it! I must admit our cyclo driver found us a lovely little restaurant and I think I had the best barbecued/grilled fish there that I've had in all the time I've been in South-East Asia. The return trip to the Gueshouse was uneventful. Chau Doc, by the way, never lost its power. The lights were on again when we returned to our Guesthouse.
February 7
We arose at 5:30 so that we could meet our group at 6:30 in Chau Doc. We joined the other travellers of our group for a fascinating cruise. we saw a floating market. Farmers bring their produce down river; they put a pole with a melon or onion or potato - whatever they are selling as a signal to buyers. Boats come from all over the area to buy: there were the small, hand-oared boats of the women who would sell the produce in the maket and the large barges which would take the produce to larger markets in the cities. We spent some time travelling among the boats as they banged together and hitched to each other to exchange goods. On this cruise we also saw fish farms under people's floating homes. The fish are contained by a structure of nets and ploles underneath the homes. They are fed by the family and by the tourists. You throw a handful of fish food in and all the fish jump up and lunge for it. I assume they sell the fish when they are ready for market.
We continued by boat to a port called Can Tho. We spent the afternoon exploring the town and had a lovely dinner to the noise of a group of Vietnamese celebrating a birthday. As the beers were poured the noise got louder - but all in good fun. The group sent over some birthday cake for our desert, and Joseph, our Montreal friend chagalugged a beer - all while worrying about the safety of the ice in the drink. (He wasn't feeling so well in the morning - the beer, or the ice???)
Feb. 8
We awoke the next morning to a wonderful tour led by a new guide who regaled us with stories and songs. We visited a village where they made showed us a rice mill and illustrated how rice noodles are made. Every part of the rice is used, except for the dust: the best quality rice is used for table service. the leftovers ground for "vermicelli" noodles, the husk is used for feed for the chickens and animals. We also saw rice paper making (picture). The rice paper is not for writing on; it is for eating spring rolls.
We continued to cruise the small canals through villages interconnected by monkey bridges - a bridge made across a river which is just a bamboo pole or poles, held up by other poles. It is a narrow bridge - but it is said that the Vietnames farmers ride their bicycles over it. The Mekong river floods and one is always aware of the houses perched on stilts and the fact that a lot of the housing and transportation floats.
In the evening we arrived in a port called My Tho (pronounced Mee-toe). Our last night in the Mekong delta was spent in a rather rundown hotel with a fabulous view of the river below. Inasmuch as the tour company chose the hotel and we were obliged to stay in it , I dug my heels in to insist on a toilet seat in the room. To my surprise, in spite of the vague look the receptionist gave me two hours earlier when I mouthed the words "toilet seat", a workman came, boxed seat in hand, to install it. Not to my surprise, it didn't fit. Arieh mentioned the "t. s." words to the manager later in the evening. Good luck, I thought.
Toilet seat (or lack of it) notwithstanding, that evening we walked with Joseph Somer, our new friend, to the opposite side of the river to find dinner. We found a rather substandard dinner - searched for tea and pastries - to no avail - and came back to the hotel. As we walked back, we saw hundreds of motorcycles parked outside a large and well-lit building. A department store had made it to Can Tho , and what excitement there was! The place was packed with shoppers picking over a rather, from our perspective, paltry selection of goods.
Oh - the toilet seat! Well, guess what! In the morning when we returned from breakfast - there was a shiny new toilet seat perched on the toilet - and it fit! Just in time for one use before we headed on to Saigon. The Vietnamese do their best to make sure their guests are well taken care of.
Feb. 9
On our fourth and last day we visited a coconut candy-making farm (actually just a house) - and an incense making factory. Cocunut candy has the same chewiness of toffee, but is much better. We cruised on the Tien river to Tortoise Island. On the way we viewed stilted houses and boat building workshops. We ate lunch in the heart of an island orchard and got to taste dragon fruit, pineapple, bananas, guava, and other delicious fruits that grow on Tortoise Island. Some villagers sang and played music for us. It was quite lovely. We then cruised in a tiny dugout boat through the canals which had the same beauty as the Bayou near New Orleans.
We then boarded our bus to Saigon. We entered Saigon and marvelled at the noise and traffic but not forgetting the tranquility and floating vehicles of the Mekong Delta and its islands.
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Wild "sounds like contextual" Dreams
February 8, 2007
Mekong Delta, Vietnam
Arieh here. Tricked you (sort of)!!! The title was supposed to catch you. Instead I had to change it slightly because I think it is causing problems here in Vietnam accessing the blog for me and some others. If you figure out the right word, then it refers to an actual quote from my cousin Phil quoting his wife, Corrine, about one of the rumoured side effects of Malarone. More on that later, if you have the patience to keep reading. First some comments on my "westernerness" and take note that this story is only about me and not anyone else. I am definitely in need of some innovation "re-training".
We were in Phnom Penh last week and Val and I and our two new Cambodian-American friends were walking along the river walkway in the late evening. We were approached by one "moto" driver (small motorcycle) and asked if we needed transport. (This is not an uncommon question nor unexpected). We were clearly a group of 4 people and he was clearly one driver with space for one passenger. This is where the "re-training" statment comes in. I held up my hand and "answered" with 4 fingers indicating we are 4 people. To him, this was obviously not a problem and he IMMEDIATELY suggested in Khmer that he would go get ONE more "moto" driver. From his point of view, his motorcycle not only had room for one passenger, it actually had room for TWO. Hence, his innovative solution to my answer was one more motorcycle and four people could then be transported and he and his buddy could earn some money. I, being well-off and complacent, didn't think of that solution and he, being less well-off, immediately thought of a way to overcome my "objections" to his original offer. The moto drivers solution to my problem is just one example of how motorcycles are used here in Cambodia and all of S.E. Asia. They are used by themselves to move people. I have seen up to 5 on one small motocycle (admittedly, one of the 5 was a babe-in-arms). They are used to transport goods--either on the back with a filled basket or the goods are simply strapped to the back. I even saw a LIVE pig being taken to market on the back of a moto! Upside down and frozen with fear. I have seen smallish study desks lashed to the back of a motorcycle. "Motos" are also used to pull things--usually by some attachment that is not permanent. There are wheeled attachments that are used to carry good (such as big and long pieces of wood or coal--see picture) and there are 2-wheeled attachments that are used to carry peope (as we used in Siem Reap). The people mover motos are then called "tuk tuk"s (in Cambodia) or a "kechuk" (in Java). They can hold up to 2 people (in Java) or up to 4 (in Cambodia).
The moto drivers solution to my problem is just one example of how motorcycles are used here in Cambodia and all of S.E. Asia. They are used by themselves to move people. I have seen up to 5 on one small motocycle (admittedly, one of the 5 was a babe-in-arms). They are used to transport goods--either on the back with a filled basket or the goods are simply strapped to the back. I even saw a LIVE pig being taken to market on the back of a moto! Upside down and frozen with fear. I have seen smallish study desks lashed to the back of a motorcycle. "Motos" are also used to pull things--usually by some attachment that is not permanent.
So you want to know about "sounds like contextual" dreams? Well there have not been any. However, as I mentioned, there is a rumour that Malarone cause wild dreams and I had one. So all you experts on dreams can now tell me what the following meant (and please write to the e-mail address you all have). One fine night I awoke with a start. The end of the dream (and I cannot recollect any other part) was when I took a swipe at a tiny dragon that was chewing at my leg and knocked it off. That's it. Let me know if it is the Malarone.
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Val here.
Phnom Penh. A truly interesting and lively city. Phnom Penh is larger than Siem Reap and somewhat less touristed because there is no Angkor Wat nearby. It has its own charms, however. There is a lovely walkway by the river - that is if you can dodge bicycles, motorscooters, hawkers, and walkers. But it is all with lively spirit and a sense of communal comfort. We met a American who left Cambodia when he was 8 years old, and his sister (Virak and Leak) and went on a long walk with them to the amusement park and the casino. The amusement park had the usual rides. The roller blade arena was the most popular spot. We went on a sunset cruise - had the boat almost to ourselves and watched as the sun sank behind the city.
Phnom Penh holds a tragic past. We visited:
1. The Killing Fields - this is a huge field which you walk through to remember and honour the individuals who were killed here. In this one extermination camp many Viet Namese political prisoners, intellectuals, teachers, thinkers were killed, often along with their families. A shortage of bullets eventually resulted in prisoners killed by bludgeoning and thrown into a pit. The site's focal point is stacks of skulls stacked in a memorial in the middle of the compound. This lovely field cries with the sadness and horror that occurred from 1975 to 1979 during the Pol Pot regime.
2. S- 21 - This is a school which was turned into a prison for incarceration and torture of anyone the Pol Pot regime thought might be an enemy. Prisoners were shackled to their beds and tortured mercilessly until they confessed to whatever crimes they were accused of. Then, if they survived the conditions and torture, they were shipped off to an extermination camp and bludgeoned or shot to death. The sight has photographs of the people who were incarcerated in this facility - men and women. It is, like the killing fields, a memorial to the victims of these horrors. Pol Pot and his political cronies, like the Nazis, kept detailed records of these "criminals" so sure were they of the necessity of this genocidal brutality.
3. Phnom Penh - Pot Pot emptied the entire city of its 1,500,000 inhabitants shortly after he came to power. After studying and breathing in the communist idealogy of China he decided to send all the urban dwellers to work in the fields and live in communes. And yes, as unbelievable as it sounds he used adolescent brainwashed thugs to clear the city of Phnom Penh in 24 hours.
The horrors of Pol Pot's regime are in no way yet forgotten. The country still has much healing to do and it will take many more years to recover economically from the trauma of those years. The government is quite corrupt and has made little effort to punish the people responsible for the horrors of the Pol Pot - Khmer Rouge years. Pol Pot himself died in bed a few years ago. I suspect the survivors are hurt and angry at the lack of political will to punish these criminals.
Tuesday, February 13, 2007
Nah Trang Morning Walk
February 14, 2007
Nah Trang, Vietnam
Arieh here. Up early today to see what's up on this beach at 6AM. Not only was it cool and pleasant, the beach, walkway and green areas were well used by the local inhabitants. Badminton games, soccer games, walking, people doing calisthenics, and swimming. The participants were of all ages--young teenagers before going off to school, middle-aged people before going off to work and older people before....going off to work. Some said hello to me, some engaged me in longer conversations and some ignored me. Relatively few Westerners up at 6AM. BTW, some of the people I saw were finished their exercises at 6AM. I walked for about an hour and by 7AM it was pretty well empty and finished. One memorable fellow was doing some traditional Vietnames/Cambodian/Thai massage on himself. He was standing with his back to the sun and moving his hands as if massaging his neck and head. However, he was NOT actually touching himself; his hands were about 5 cm away from contact and the force field energy was doing the work for him.
Nah Trang is on the East Coast of Vietnam, north of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and south of our next stop, Hoi An. It is a largish city with a beautiful beach and well maintained for both foreign visitors and Vietnamese visitors. I have seen pictures of the beaches in "warmer" weather chock full of people and they don't look like me. There is a very nice walkway for about 8 KM along the beach, the sand is machine-raked periodically and there are very few hawkers during the day. Yesterday, Val and I treated ourselves to a "day on the beach". Our hotel does not have a pool. Instead we found a place close by that rents very comfortable lounge chairs on the beach for $1.25, comes with security guards standing around, use of a swimming pool behind us and, of course, access to food and drink. Very nice day. We both finished books during the course of the day and the number of sales approaches was less than 10. Here I am Para-sailing!!
The bus-drive up from HCMC was interesting, if somewhat long. Very urbanized for quite a while from HCMC and then actual countryside. Part of the trip reminded me of the Jordan Valley. Tall rocky mountains on one side of the road and very little rainfall in the area. As the sun was going down behind the mountains on the West, the light was very similar to the Jordan Valley at the same time of day. For that matter, it also looked like the Okanagon Valley in B.C. at times. In short, it did NOT look like any pictures I have seen or imagined about Vietnam--rice fields, jungles, busy cities.
Nah Trang, Vietnam
Arieh here. Up early today to see what's up on this beach at 6AM. Not only was it cool and pleasant, the beach, walkway and green areas were well used by the local inhabitants. Badminton games, soccer games, walking, people doing calisthenics, and swimming. The participants were of all ages--young teenagers before going off to school, middle-aged people before going off to work and older people before....going off to work. Some said hello to me, some engaged me in longer conversations and some ignored me. Relatively few Westerners up at 6AM. BTW, some of the people I saw were finished their exercises at 6AM. I walked for about an hour and by 7AM it was pretty well empty and finished. One memorable fellow was doing some traditional Vietnames/Cambodian/Thai massage on himself. He was standing with his back to the sun and moving his hands as if massaging his neck and head. However, he was NOT actually touching himself; his hands were about 5 cm away from contact and the force field energy was doing the work for him.
Nah Trang is on the East Coast of Vietnam, north of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and south of our next stop, Hoi An. It is a largish city with a beautiful beach and well maintained for both foreign visitors and Vietnamese visitors. I have seen pictures of the beaches in "warmer" weather chock full of people and they don't look like me. There is a very nice walkway for about 8 KM along the beach, the sand is machine-raked periodically and there are very few hawkers during the day. Yesterday, Val and I treated ourselves to a "day on the beach". Our hotel does not have a pool. Instead we found a place close by that rents very comfortable lounge chairs on the beach for $1.25, comes with security guards standing around, use of a swimming pool behind us and, of course, access to food and drink. Very nice day. We both finished books during the course of the day and the number of sales approaches was less than 10. Here I am Para-sailing!!
The bus-drive up from HCMC was interesting, if somewhat long. Very urbanized for quite a while from HCMC and then actual countryside. Part of the trip reminded me of the Jordan Valley. Tall rocky mountains on one side of the road and very little rainfall in the area. As the sun was going down behind the mountains on the West, the light was very similar to the Jordan Valley at the same time of day. For that matter, it also looked like the Okanagon Valley in B.C. at times. In short, it did NOT look like any pictures I have seen or imagined about Vietnam--rice fields, jungles, busy cities.
Chuc Mung Nam Moi
February 11, 2007
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam
Arieh here. Chuc Mung Nam Moi, or as we say in the vernacular "Shanah Tovah". Val has gone off on a tour of the "tunnels" outside of HCMC--those used by the Viet Minh in their independence struggle against the French and then later repaired and used against the Americans and the South Vietnamese by the Viet Cong. I will see untouched tunnels in the Demilitarized Zone in a week or so. In the meantime, I am walking around HCMC.
I started off in a park near our hotel. This park is normally a green space (apparently created in the last 4 years) about 75 metres wide by about 1 KM long. It has grass, gardens, trees, walking paths and places to sit. I say "normally" because I think it looks different today (and this time of year) because of the Vietnamese Tet holiday (same same but different as Chinese New Year). Today all the grassy areas are covered by vendors--I am sure they all have permission. However, the products beidng sold are actually enhancing the park. Big and small flowering plants, green-leafed plants, bushes that produce tiny oranges, small trees in large pots, small trees showing elaborate root systems above the earth level, and, of course, some drink vendors. Some of the leafy bushes have been cut in the shape of little piggies (Year of the Pig); some are in the shape of a small dragon (with ears, tongue and eys stuck in the leaves to give the face). Maybe these are the dragons of my wild sexual dreams??
I am now sitting in the middle of a traffic circle near the old Hotel de Ville. It is now called the Peoples' Committee Building. The traffic circle has a beautiful fountain and flowers in the centre and sitting blocks surrounding it. Last night we were here (on the rooftop of the Rex Hotel) and the streets were full of traffic--comparatively few cars but thousands of motorcycles. For the 6 million people here I am sure there are more than 4 million "motos". Crossing the street, as described in all the tourists books, is an adventure and a half. Don't ever stop walking; just keep watching and going across!! The traffic is expecting you to keep going and will go around you (either in front or back). If you stop, you endanger everyone. HCMC has many wide boulevards (like Paris) and the one near the PCB is being fixed up and made even more beautiful.
For walking and I even tired myself out. After walking down to the Saigon river (and being approached by friends of "Miss Saigon") and back to the PCB I continued on to the War Remnants Museum. It is rather interesting, albeit with some very disturbing exhibits and photos of the effects of war and torture on humans and nature. Old U.S. tanks, jets, and other planes on display, as well as examples of prison cells used by both the French (prior to 1954) and the South Vietnamese until 1975. Not surprisingly, not a lot of mention of U.S. POWs. So, after that museum, I was tired, broke down and took a cycle cab to the Notre Dame Cathedral, where I am now sitting enjoying some sort of chanting and organ as a prelude to a Mass service.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam
Arieh here. Chuc Mung Nam Moi, or as we say in the vernacular "Shanah Tovah". Val has gone off on a tour of the "tunnels" outside of HCMC--those used by the Viet Minh in their independence struggle against the French and then later repaired and used against the Americans and the South Vietnamese by the Viet Cong. I will see untouched tunnels in the Demilitarized Zone in a week or so. In the meantime, I am walking around HCMC.
I started off in a park near our hotel. This park is normally a green space (apparently created in the last 4 years) about 75 metres wide by about 1 KM long. It has grass, gardens, trees, walking paths and places to sit. I say "normally" because I think it looks different today (and this time of year) because of the Vietnamese Tet holiday (same same but different as Chinese New Year). Today all the grassy areas are covered by vendors--I am sure they all have permission. However, the products beidng sold are actually enhancing the park. Big and small flowering plants, green-leafed plants, bushes that produce tiny oranges, small trees in large pots, small trees showing elaborate root systems above the earth level, and, of course, some drink vendors. Some of the leafy bushes have been cut in the shape of little piggies (Year of the Pig); some are in the shape of a small dragon (with ears, tongue and eys stuck in the leaves to give the face). Maybe these are the dragons of my wild sexual dreams??
I am now sitting in the middle of a traffic circle near the old Hotel de Ville. It is now called the Peoples' Committee Building. The traffic circle has a beautiful fountain and flowers in the centre and sitting blocks surrounding it. Last night we were here (on the rooftop of the Rex Hotel) and the streets were full of traffic--comparatively few cars but thousands of motorcycles. For the 6 million people here I am sure there are more than 4 million "motos". Crossing the street, as described in all the tourists books, is an adventure and a half. Don't ever stop walking; just keep watching and going across!! The traffic is expecting you to keep going and will go around you (either in front or back). If you stop, you endanger everyone. HCMC has many wide boulevards (like Paris) and the one near the PCB is being fixed up and made even more beautiful.
For walking and I even tired myself out. After walking down to the Saigon river (and being approached by friends of "Miss Saigon") and back to the PCB I continued on to the War Remnants Museum. It is rather interesting, albeit with some very disturbing exhibits and photos of the effects of war and torture on humans and nature. Old U.S. tanks, jets, and other planes on display, as well as examples of prison cells used by both the French (prior to 1954) and the South Vietnamese until 1975. Not surprisingly, not a lot of mention of U.S. POWs. So, after that museum, I was tired, broke down and took a cycle cab to the Notre Dame Cathedral, where I am now sitting enjoying some sort of chanting and organ as a prelude to a Mass service.
Tuesday, January 30, 2007
Siem Reap, Cambodia
January 31, 2007
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Val here. We leave Siem Reap tomorrow morning. How I will miss it.
Siem Reap is a town that is known by the outside world mostly because of its 20 kilometre distance from the famous Angkor Wat - the gorgeous Hindu and Buddhist sandstone temples built from the 11th to the 14th Centuries and known for their magnificent architecture and intricate carvings. The temples are scattered over 77 kilometres in what was apparently a large city of one million people. (At that time London only had about 50.000 inhabitants). It is exquisite and arguably the most magnificent place to photograph in the world. Hundreds of tourists come to see the sunrise and sunset over Angkor Wat and to see its reflection in the pool and moat in front of it. But the other, smaller temples are just as astounding.
A few have huge trees growing right out of the sandstone - a magnificent symbiosis of man and nature. Most have intricate carvings of Vishnu and Shiva and garudas and monkeys - all important figures in the Ramayana. If not characters from the Ramayana there are intricate floral carvings. The Terrace of the Elephants has carvings of lifesize elephants along its major wall which you see as you drive along the road- dramatic!
So - what did Arieh and I discuss on the Tuc-Tuc (a motorized rickshaw) going to and from the temples? The history, the majesty? No - we discussed whether one would get more seriously injured on the left side or the right side of the tuc-tuc should we have a collision. On the left is often ditches and sand which I imagine tipping into - on the right - the oncoming traffic, which Arieh pointed out, is more likely to cause a fatality. No-one seems to look - trucks, buses, tuc-tucs and bicycles and pedestrians all share the road and move this way and that with very little room between them. But we have travelled to Angkor Wat twice - and are still alive and well. Though we are finally in a country where they drive on the right side it takes some getting used to - especially crossing a busy street - after 3 months of lefthand driving.
If you want to get an idea of Angkor Wat - go to Indigo or Chapters. They have large coffee table books with gorgeous photographs of the place. We took some of our own photographs, of course. and they are beautiful as is the place.
Siem Reap is a lovely smallish town with colonial architecture. Though poverty is everywhere there are a lot of foreign NGOs and donations coming in to help the people after years of devastating civil war and the Pol Pot regime. We have a lovely hotel (See picture of Val and our tuk-tuk) in the centre of town near the market and although it's noisey at times, it's also lively and great to be in the thick of things. We overlook the river and are a block away from the old market. We are constantly approached by hawkers selling photocopied travel books, bracelets, pipes, and tuc-tuc drivers offering their services. They are making a living and we try to smile and say no. Arieh is especially good at getting the child sellers to lighten up for a while and chat and giggle and smile - before they go back to their primary purpose - selling their wares to the rich tourists.
Today Arieh and I went for a walk. First, we stopped at the Children's Hospital so that Arieh could give blood - a highly valued commodity. My hero walked away with a wonderful teeshirt stating he's a friend without borders. Several Cambodians recognized his wonderful donation and commented on it. We then saw a wonderful photography exhibit at a hotel. Yes, gorgeous Angkor Wat again! We went into the Cambodian Raffles Hotel (I should mention that there are at least thirty new, large, upscale hotels built in the last five years - Raffles is the renovated Grand Hotel). We chatted with the Hotel public relations fellow for a while and found out lots of gossip from him about hospitals, conferences, donations given and by whom, etc. We were then invited to visit the hotel and we admired the pool and restaurant, Buddha exhibit, and shops - and then left for our $6.00 (for both of us) lunch at a local restaurant.
Arieh and I also went to a buffet and traditional dance presentation the other night. The dance was beautiful - both folk dancing on a fishing theme, and classical dance. South-east Asian dance is similar but as you get to understand it, each country has its own special style and the accompanying musical instruments are different. The dance was charming and enchanting, the buffet good. Another lovely evening in Siem Reap.
We also spent Saturday night attending a concert given by a Swiss Doctor Beata. He does a cello concert with films and lecture in the hopes of promoting four state of the art Children's hospitals he has set up in Cambodia. Another interesting perspective on the situation. He finished with the Kol Nidre - at Holy Blossom in Toronto we hear it every Yom Kippur played by a marvellous cellist. It brought tears to my eyes! It is difficult not to ask for forgiveness when we have so much whereas so many places in the world have so little.
Off to Phnom Penh - more soon.
Arieh here. Val mentioned everyone selling something. Well, indeed they do! The picture below is a group of Cambodian musicians who are victims of the landmines or other aspects of the history of war in Cambodia. They (and many other groups) dot the countryside or towns where tourists roam, play as a group and sell their CD. They are not begging, simply trying to make a living. The other picutre is a poster near one of the Angkor Wat sites. It's title is "We No Longer Need Weapons" and depicts how Cambodia has been transformed after the war finished. It might be hard to see but right at the "tear" of the photo is a boy crossing over the line (near the bottom). His pants on one side are ripped and torn and he is shoeless; on the other side one can see the pants are good and he has shoes. Quite the poster, I thought.
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Val here. We leave Siem Reap tomorrow morning. How I will miss it.
Siem Reap is a town that is known by the outside world mostly because of its 20 kilometre distance from the famous Angkor Wat - the gorgeous Hindu and Buddhist sandstone temples built from the 11th to the 14th Centuries and known for their magnificent architecture and intricate carvings. The temples are scattered over 77 kilometres in what was apparently a large city of one million people. (At that time London only had about 50.000 inhabitants). It is exquisite and arguably the most magnificent place to photograph in the world. Hundreds of tourists come to see the sunrise and sunset over Angkor Wat and to see its reflection in the pool and moat in front of it. But the other, smaller temples are just as astounding.
A few have huge trees growing right out of the sandstone - a magnificent symbiosis of man and nature. Most have intricate carvings of Vishnu and Shiva and garudas and monkeys - all important figures in the Ramayana. If not characters from the Ramayana there are intricate floral carvings. The Terrace of the Elephants has carvings of lifesize elephants along its major wall which you see as you drive along the road- dramatic!
So - what did Arieh and I discuss on the Tuc-Tuc (a motorized rickshaw) going to and from the temples? The history, the majesty? No - we discussed whether one would get more seriously injured on the left side or the right side of the tuc-tuc should we have a collision. On the left is often ditches and sand which I imagine tipping into - on the right - the oncoming traffic, which Arieh pointed out, is more likely to cause a fatality. No-one seems to look - trucks, buses, tuc-tucs and bicycles and pedestrians all share the road and move this way and that with very little room between them. But we have travelled to Angkor Wat twice - and are still alive and well. Though we are finally in a country where they drive on the right side it takes some getting used to - especially crossing a busy street - after 3 months of lefthand driving.
If you want to get an idea of Angkor Wat - go to Indigo or Chapters. They have large coffee table books with gorgeous photographs of the place. We took some of our own photographs, of course. and they are beautiful as is the place.
Siem Reap is a lovely smallish town with colonial architecture. Though poverty is everywhere there are a lot of foreign NGOs and donations coming in to help the people after years of devastating civil war and the Pol Pot regime. We have a lovely hotel (See picture of Val and our tuk-tuk) in the centre of town near the market and although it's noisey at times, it's also lively and great to be in the thick of things. We overlook the river and are a block away from the old market. We are constantly approached by hawkers selling photocopied travel books, bracelets, pipes, and tuc-tuc drivers offering their services. They are making a living and we try to smile and say no. Arieh is especially good at getting the child sellers to lighten up for a while and chat and giggle and smile - before they go back to their primary purpose - selling their wares to the rich tourists.Today Arieh and I went for a walk. First, we stopped at the Children's Hospital so that Arieh could give blood - a highly valued commodity. My hero walked away with a wonderful teeshirt stating he's a friend without borders. Several Cambodians recognized his wonderful donation and commented on it. We then saw a wonderful photography exhibit at a hotel. Yes, gorgeous Angkor Wat again! We went into the Cambodian Raffles Hotel (I should mention that there are at least thirty new, large, upscale hotels built in the last five years - Raffles is the renovated Grand Hotel). We chatted with the Hotel public relations fellow for a while and found out lots of gossip from him about hospitals, conferences, donations given and by whom, etc. We were then invited to visit the hotel and we admired the pool and restaurant, Buddha exhibit, and shops - and then left for our $6.00 (for both of us) lunch at a local restaurant.
Arieh and I also went to a buffet and traditional dance presentation the other night. The dance was beautiful - both folk dancing on a fishing theme, and classical dance. South-east Asian dance is similar but as you get to understand it, each country has its own special style and the accompanying musical instruments are different. The dance was charming and enchanting, the buffet good. Another lovely evening in Siem Reap.We also spent Saturday night attending a concert given by a Swiss Doctor Beata. He does a cello concert with films and lecture in the hopes of promoting four state of the art Children's hospitals he has set up in Cambodia. Another interesting perspective on the situation. He finished with the Kol Nidre - at Holy Blossom in Toronto we hear it every Yom Kippur played by a marvellous cellist. It brought tears to my eyes! It is difficult not to ask for forgiveness when we have so much whereas so many places in the world have so little.
Off to Phnom Penh - more soon.
Arieh here. Val mentioned everyone selling something. Well, indeed they do! The picture below is a group of Cambodian musicians who are victims of the landmines or other aspects of the history of war in Cambodia. They (and many other groups) dot the countryside or towns where tourists roam, play as a group and sell their CD. They are not begging, simply trying to make a living. The other picutre is a poster near one of the Angkor Wat sites. It's title is "We No Longer Need Weapons" and depicts how Cambodia has been transformed after the war finished. It might be hard to see but right at the "tear" of the photo is a boy crossing over the line (near the bottom). His pants on one side are ripped and torn and he is shoeless; on the other side one can see the pants are good and he has shoes. Quite the poster, I thought.
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
The Jewel that is Singapore
January 25, 2007
Val here:
Did you know that you cannot purchase chewing gum in Singapore? Not even at the airport?
Why not, you ask? Because Singapore attempts to be the cleanest and best run country in South-East Asia! And, I might add, it succeeds. Granted, perhaps a little colonialism and dictatorship makes it so well run - but it is a city where vision is permitted to flourish. Singapore makes Toronto look pretty unimaginative! The architecture is varied and divine - except for what they call the Sydney Opera House - their theatre centre which looks like a large (and ugly) durian fruit. Otherwise, they've given architects the run of the island - and there are some brilliantly designed buildings. The transport system is also wonderful There is an excellent, clean (no chewing gum under the seats!) metro system and an extensive system of buses. There is not a lot of need to have a car for the 4,000,000 residents - it is quite easy to get around on their very inexpensive public transport.
Our favorite building is the one called the Parkview Place.
It towered across the street from our lovely little budget New Seven Storey Hotel and we saw it daily from our window. It is about 40 storeys and a gorgeous art deco design, inside and out. There are statues of Abraham Lincoln, Chopin, Salvadore Dali and others in the courtyard. Apparently the Parkview is a prestigious office building - you must be invited to visit offices there. We did, however, have a drink in the bar - a remarkable space - totally art deco except, maybe, for the wine bar going up one huge wall. The waitress wears little angel wings and goes up to select your wine from the wine bar by winch and pulley! Quite the thing to see!
Other highlights of Singapore:
Food is everywhere and varied - outside, inside, Indian, Chinese, Malayan, Indonesian, European - and remarkably affordable. Arieh and I could have three filling meals for $15 to $20 a day! (and we did). It is such a modern city - but one's Canadian dollar goes far.
The Bird Park: We loved the bird park in Bali - but the Singapore version had even more species of birds. There were aviaries filled with hornbills, birds of prey, small birds of the African rainforest - and the favorite - an aviary filled with lorikeets - those delightful, friendly parrots of Australia (that my cousin Robyn feeds in her backyard in Sydney). You may feed these sociable little birds if you don't mind them landing on your shoulder, fighting with other birds over your head, and squawking loudly in your ear.
The Night Safari - Singapore Zoo has a night safari. You can walk through or take a tram and see all sorts of species of night animals - lions, leopards, bats, fishing cats, elephants, hyenas, etc. etc. It was a wonderful evening - quite an unusual concept!
The Chengi Museum: this museum is a well-presented collection of memories from the period of time under Japanese occupation from 1942 to 1945. A sad but fascinating place: it shows the depths and heights that people can reach. Chengi is where the political prisoners were kept - it was already a prison complex - so many British as well as Chinese were incarcerated there. It also dealth with the treatment of prisoners of war and the various armies that did their best to protect Singapore - including some from countries we've already visited: New Zealand, Australia.
Val here:
Did you know that you cannot purchase chewing gum in Singapore? Not even at the airport?
Why not, you ask? Because Singapore attempts to be the cleanest and best run country in South-East Asia! And, I might add, it succeeds. Granted, perhaps a little colonialism and dictatorship makes it so well run - but it is a city where vision is permitted to flourish. Singapore makes Toronto look pretty unimaginative! The architecture is varied and divine - except for what they call the Sydney Opera House - their theatre centre which looks like a large (and ugly) durian fruit. Otherwise, they've given architects the run of the island - and there are some brilliantly designed buildings. The transport system is also wonderful There is an excellent, clean (no chewing gum under the seats!) metro system and an extensive system of buses. There is not a lot of need to have a car for the 4,000,000 residents - it is quite easy to get around on their very inexpensive public transport.
Our favorite building is the one called the Parkview Place.
It towered across the street from our lovely little budget New Seven Storey Hotel and we saw it daily from our window. It is about 40 storeys and a gorgeous art deco design, inside and out. There are statues of Abraham Lincoln, Chopin, Salvadore Dali and others in the courtyard. Apparently the Parkview is a prestigious office building - you must be invited to visit offices there. We did, however, have a drink in the bar - a remarkable space - totally art deco except, maybe, for the wine bar going up one huge wall. The waitress wears little angel wings and goes up to select your wine from the wine bar by winch and pulley! Quite the thing to see!
Other highlights of Singapore:
Food is everywhere and varied - outside, inside, Indian, Chinese, Malayan, Indonesian, European - and remarkably affordable. Arieh and I could have three filling meals for $15 to $20 a day! (and we did). It is such a modern city - but one's Canadian dollar goes far.
The Bird Park: We loved the bird park in Bali - but the Singapore version had even more species of birds. There were aviaries filled with hornbills, birds of prey, small birds of the African rainforest - and the favorite - an aviary filled with lorikeets - those delightful, friendly parrots of Australia (that my cousin Robyn feeds in her backyard in Sydney). You may feed these sociable little birds if you don't mind them landing on your shoulder, fighting with other birds over your head, and squawking loudly in your ear.
The Night Safari - Singapore Zoo has a night safari. You can walk through or take a tram and see all sorts of species of night animals - lions, leopards, bats, fishing cats, elephants, hyenas, etc. etc. It was a wonderful evening - quite an unusual concept!
The Chengi Museum: this museum is a well-presented collection of memories from the period of time under Japanese occupation from 1942 to 1945. A sad but fascinating place: it shows the depths and heights that people can reach. Chengi is where the political prisoners were kept - it was already a prison complex - so many British as well as Chinese were incarcerated there. It also dealth with the treatment of prisoners of war and the various armies that did their best to protect Singapore - including some from countries we've already visited: New Zealand, Australia.
On the Friday night that we were in Singapore Arieh and I went to the Orthodox Shul. The Progressive (Reform)Shul wanted a scanned copy of our passports. After that was sent, we found that they only met once every 4 weeks and this wasn't the week - so off we went to an Orthodox service. I read shul newsletters as I peered from the balcony above listening to the Sephardic and unfamiliar tunes intoned by the cantor and the 35 odd men and boys below. Not surprisingly there were only about 6 women above - all visitors to Singapore. After services we stayed for a delicious dinner and chatted with an Israeli (formerly American) couple. He was doing business seeking silver mines in China - she had met him for a little travel and r and r. We had a pleasant dinner discussing their travels and hearing bout their move to Hebron (one of the first families, they said) and their leaving Hebron for Ephrat (near Gush Etzion). Another couple from Rochester/Montreal and elsewhere in the States was in Singapore waiting for their cruise in South-East Asia. There were two young men from Chabad New York teaching students and helping with services who were delighted with thier stay in Singapore. They explained how the Orthodox synagogue was very wealthy thanks to donations from a benefactor and were looking forward to moving into the large and beautiful new building which was being constructed on the site.
Singapore is truly a lovely place to visit - a restful well-organized place after the more demanding Indonesia. Come see it!
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Meeting new friends in Indonesia
Solo, Indonesia
Val here.
We have been here in Solo for two days. It is a relatively untouristed town - at least in the last few years. One is greeted by smiles no matter how hot, how tired, how weary, how young or how old the person on the street. "Salamat Pagi" (good morning) gets an especially appreciative response.
I walk to the palace near our hotel - it has the beautiful name Pura Mankunegaran. I take a tour through the palace and see the area where the royal family entertains and meet the king's brother who is busy arranging costumes for a Wayang - dance performance.
I sit down at the palace performance lobby/stage - it is open air and listen to the gamelan. The dancers come to rehearse and am am lulled by the graceful subtlety of their movements to the quiet gamelan and high pitched but melodic female singers.
The dancers leave and I lean against a post and slowly fall into a light sleep. But wait - someone is speaking to me. Beside me appear two beautiful girls in headscarves with their more confident young male friend. they ask me the usual - where I am from, how long I have been in Solo, where am I staying. We chat for a while and Arieh comes to join us. We chat for a while longer and the girls introduce themselves as Laila and Ita. They are University students who are about to go into education. They declare that they would like us to come to their homes. Saoud, their friend was at one time a guide at the palace, but when the tourists no longer came he had to sell his house and now produces music on diskettes. The three will pick us up on scooters tomorrow at 9 AM if we don't mind. We don't mind!
Sure enough, at 9 the next morning, the three friends come to take us to their village. We clmb onto the back of the scooters and head out to the village of Sukoharjo near Solo. First we visit Laila. Her mother, a quiet but smiling housewife has prepared wonderful local treats for us: longtan, sweets, rice rolled around jackfruit and chillies and cooked in banana leaves, etc. etc.
Unfortunately we had eaten breakfast but we all enjoyed the spread. We then headed out to visit a glass factory, a small furniture making facility. We then observed how they make bricks and how they prepare tofu (pity the vegetarians!). We then proceeded to Laila's very modest brick home. Her father, she explained was at one time a becak rider (bicycle rickshaw), but now sells chickens in the morning and makes and sells bricks at other times. she apologized for the modesty of her home but presented us with rambutans to eat and hot or cold tea.
Two days later, Laila and Ita came to our now luxury hotel. they were delighted to see the facilities and the pool. We went out for dinner together and they told us about thier boyfriends and their country's food and their hopes and dreams. they wanted us to come to their class at the mosque and meet their students.
Today we met their lovely young and older students. Arieh did a question and answer thing with the older students, I taught the little ones three songs: head and shoulders knees and toes, Where is the house, And Tommy Thumb is up. What lovely attentive children. It was a joy to meet them.
Laila would like to travel to Canada and the world if only she had money. l she commented on how hard her father works so that life will be better for her and her sister. Ita was concerned that we thought all Muslims were terrorists. She has a soft and lovely manner about her but an iron resolve to finish her education before she marries her boyfriend.
It was truly a joy to spend time with these young women (21 years old) and their friends, family, and students. We shall long remember Solo and these lovely ambassadors.
Val here.
We have been here in Solo for two days. It is a relatively untouristed town - at least in the last few years. One is greeted by smiles no matter how hot, how tired, how weary, how young or how old the person on the street. "Salamat Pagi" (good morning) gets an especially appreciative response.
I walk to the palace near our hotel - it has the beautiful name Pura Mankunegaran. I take a tour through the palace and see the area where the royal family entertains and meet the king's brother who is busy arranging costumes for a Wayang - dance performance.
I sit down at the palace performance lobby/stage - it is open air and listen to the gamelan. The dancers come to rehearse and am am lulled by the graceful subtlety of their movements to the quiet gamelan and high pitched but melodic female singers.
The dancers leave and I lean against a post and slowly fall into a light sleep. But wait - someone is speaking to me. Beside me appear two beautiful girls in headscarves with their more confident young male friend. they ask me the usual - where I am from, how long I have been in Solo, where am I staying. We chat for a while and Arieh comes to join us. We chat for a while longer and the girls introduce themselves as Laila and Ita. They are University students who are about to go into education. They declare that they would like us to come to their homes. Saoud, their friend was at one time a guide at the palace, but when the tourists no longer came he had to sell his house and now produces music on diskettes. The three will pick us up on scooters tomorrow at 9 AM if we don't mind. We don't mind!
Sure enough, at 9 the next morning, the three friends come to take us to their village. We clmb onto the back of the scooters and head out to the village of Sukoharjo near Solo. First we visit Laila. Her mother, a quiet but smiling housewife has prepared wonderful local treats for us: longtan, sweets, rice rolled around jackfruit and chillies and cooked in banana leaves, etc. etc.
Unfortunately we had eaten breakfast but we all enjoyed the spread. We then headed out to visit a glass factory, a small furniture making facility. We then observed how they make bricks and how they prepare tofu (pity the vegetarians!). We then proceeded to Laila's very modest brick home. Her father, she explained was at one time a becak rider (bicycle rickshaw), but now sells chickens in the morning and makes and sells bricks at other times. she apologized for the modesty of her home but presented us with rambutans to eat and hot or cold tea.
Two days later, Laila and Ita came to our now luxury hotel. they were delighted to see the facilities and the pool. We went out for dinner together and they told us about thier boyfriends and their country's food and their hopes and dreams. they wanted us to come to their class at the mosque and meet their students.
Today we met their lovely young and older students. Arieh did a question and answer thing with the older students, I taught the little ones three songs: head and shoulders knees and toes, Where is the house, And Tommy Thumb is up. What lovely attentive children. It was a joy to meet them.
Laila would like to travel to Canada and the world if only she had money. l she commented on how hard her father works so that life will be better for her and her sister. Ita was concerned that we thought all Muslims were terrorists. She has a soft and lovely manner about her but an iron resolve to finish her education before she marries her boyfriend.
It was truly a joy to spend time with these young women (21 years old) and their friends, family, and students. We shall long remember Solo and these lovely ambassadors.
Breaking the rules in Indonesia
Arieh here. Many rules have been broken in the last few days here in Indonesia.
#1. Don't drive (or be driven) at night between towns or cities. Violated? Yes, we spent about 1.5 hours driving in the dark in order to get to Solo. The bigger the vehicle here, the less they care about anyone else. Buses and trucks pass everywhere and anyone. Oncoming traffic must move over to the edge of the road. Often a motorscooter is approaching and they simply move to the edge of the road and keep going while the bus or truck does the same (except the bus is on the wrong side of the road).
#2. Don't have ice in your drinks. Violated? You bet! All the drinks (juice or just plain soda) have ice thrown in to them and gosh they taste nice and cold.
#3. Don't leave money or documents in your hotel room. Violated? Only by Arieh. Val "told me so"!!! Fortunately, the $1,100 in travellers cheques are replaceable; the $100 cash is not. Where did the brilliant one leave my pouch--inside the pillow case. Who would ever look there?? We think it happened in Bromo and discovered it 4 or 5 days later here in Solo.
Val here:
#4 don't get enchanted by the chant of the call to prayer! It is supposed to be imposing and yet after a few days I find it haunting and beautiful!
#5 Don't ride on the back of a motorscooter in the raucous traffic of a developing country - well, only if you want to get somewhere with new friends!!
#6 And be sure to wear a solid and fitted motor cycle helmet not a sloppy fitting eggshell - well only if you want to go to visit a classroom or the home and neighbourhood of new Indonesian friends!
#7 Backpackers don't stay in luxury hotels. Well - only if the budget hotel where you first stayed no longer has airconditioned rooms available (and no windows in those rooms) and it is 35 degrees celsius during the day, and the pool is gorgeous and immediately outside the door of your hotel room.
#8 Don't eat street food. Only if a friend gives you an absolutely delicious bag of satay ayam (chicken stay) with longam (rice cooked in banana leaves) and scrumptious sauce.
#9 You won't hear Christmas carols in a Muslim country - well only AFTER Christmas at the hotel restaurant during breakfast (a rather jazzy version at that!) and when the Luves roti man wheels his (ice cream) cart around (see photo) attracting buyers to his wares to tinny tunes of Away in a Manger and Jingle Bells.
#1. Don't drive (or be driven) at night between towns or cities. Violated? Yes, we spent about 1.5 hours driving in the dark in order to get to Solo. The bigger the vehicle here, the less they care about anyone else. Buses and trucks pass everywhere and anyone. Oncoming traffic must move over to the edge of the road. Often a motorscooter is approaching and they simply move to the edge of the road and keep going while the bus or truck does the same (except the bus is on the wrong side of the road).
#2. Don't have ice in your drinks. Violated? You bet! All the drinks (juice or just plain soda) have ice thrown in to them and gosh they taste nice and cold.
#3. Don't leave money or documents in your hotel room. Violated? Only by Arieh. Val "told me so"!!! Fortunately, the $1,100 in travellers cheques are replaceable; the $100 cash is not. Where did the brilliant one leave my pouch--inside the pillow case. Who would ever look there?? We think it happened in Bromo and discovered it 4 or 5 days later here in Solo.
Val here:
#4 don't get enchanted by the chant of the call to prayer! It is supposed to be imposing and yet after a few days I find it haunting and beautiful!
#5 Don't ride on the back of a motorscooter in the raucous traffic of a developing country - well, only if you want to get somewhere with new friends!!
#6 And be sure to wear a solid and fitted motor cycle helmet not a sloppy fitting eggshell - well only if you want to go to visit a classroom or the home and neighbourhood of new Indonesian friends!
#7 Backpackers don't stay in luxury hotels. Well - only if the budget hotel where you first stayed no longer has airconditioned rooms available (and no windows in those rooms) and it is 35 degrees celsius during the day, and the pool is gorgeous and immediately outside the door of your hotel room.
#8 Don't eat street food. Only if a friend gives you an absolutely delicious bag of satay ayam (chicken stay) with longam (rice cooked in banana leaves) and scrumptious sauce.
#9 You won't hear Christmas carols in a Muslim country - well only AFTER Christmas at the hotel restaurant during breakfast (a rather jazzy version at that!) and when the Luves roti man wheels his (ice cream) cart around (see photo) attracting buyers to his wares to tinny tunes of Away in a Manger and Jingle Bells.
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