No electricity--Island of Taveuni, Fiji

Monday, October 30, 2006

Arieh here. Here we are in Savusavu, on the island of Vanua Levu, sitting on our balcony overlooking Savusavu Bay (picture). This is Fiji's 2nd largest island and this little town is quite the "yachtie" hangout. Rhonda and Israel (and of course my mother's relatives--maiden name was Yacht) need to put into port here. We arrived here yesterday by a 4-hour car/passenger ferry ride from Taveuni, Fiji's 4th largest island. (picture). In Savusavu we have 24-hour electricity. On Taveuni we had generator-electricity for 3.5 hours/day (until 9:30PM). We could have stayed in a fancier resort where they run the generator 24 hours, but at $300-$400 U.S./day we thought we would let some of you enjoy those resorts. In any case, from the "Honeymoon Suite" at Bibi's Hideaway we had a nice view of his grounds and and surrounding area (picture). Jim Bibi, a "real" Fijian (unlike the Indo-Fijians or Europeans) owns the land, cultivated and landscaped the property and is quite happy to talk your ear off. He is quite proud of the fact that of the 27 resort owners on Taveuni, he is the only Fijian landowner--the other 24 are foreigners and the other 2 are "only" Fijian managers, not owners. His property has coconut trees (be careful as you walk), papaya trees, pineapple bushes, tangerine, lime (they look orangish inside), mango, and wild flowers of many kinds. Everything is used and is there for the picking.

We also had "tea" at Audrey's Place. Audrey is a 60-ish year old Boston born, L.A. lived ex-pat. She runs a little teahouse overlooking the north bay of Taveuni island (picture) and is loads of fun to talk to as she has lived here over 20 years--all by chance after her husband left her. The other big event in Taveuni was our 5 KM (one-way) Lavena coastal walk. Fiji is somewhat like Israel and the Karen Kayemet/JNF. Most of the land is held in trust for native Fijians. However, there are some major differences as to how non-Fijians are treated regarding land. In any case, this coastal walk is the Fijian form of eco-tourism to avoid the cutting of the rain forests. We took a local bus to the end of the unpaved bumpy road and alighted at the "lodge". The whole operation is run by the village. The admission fees for the trail walk go to the village. The guide is local and three of them take turns (based on seniority), the local meals we ordered for after the 3-hour trip are prepared by different households (the $ go directly to them) and so on. At the end of the trail was a beautiful waterfall and natural swimming pool (picture). Val even learned to walk on rocks--step on the top.

The ferry to Savusavu was quite interesting. As it was only a 4-hour trip, we went economy and not First Class. The ship is an old Russian vessel, lots of rust in evidence, and "pleasant". They even have an air-conditioned sitting lounge for economy and there were not many passengers. The maps on the wall were still Russian and of the "Hellenic" islands. To top it off, they were showing a Clint Eastwood movie marathon! We looked at F.C. and will probably book it for the Tuesday overnight trip. Nice clean cabins and berths. Those in F.C. for the short trip were in a different lounge--lower down and no view. Go figure! Our short trip from Taveuni followed the coast to Savusavu, far enough away from the reefs so as not to ruin our day and run aground. A bit overcast, but smooth waters.

Broken teeth and Flying in Fiji

tm
Thursday, October 26, 2006

Arieh here. We left Nadi (Nan-dee) today by Sun Air. The flight was great, only marred by the fact that they charged us more when we got to the airport than what the "travel agent" indicated on the ticket voucher! We flew in a 19-person very small plane--every seat with a great view. What a view. We flew high enough to clear the mountains, but low enough to see great detail with binoculars. Over the water I saw from afar what looked like small islands. Low white houses, land and trees. As we flew closer to one of these islands, I saw the "white houses" changing shape. With the binoculars I could see that the white houses were breaking waves and these islands were nothing more than coral reefs. Stunning. To top it off, we were then "passed" by another local Sun Air flight (picture) going to a different destination.

Nadi was interesting in that we were able to sample a bit of the medical system. Some of you may recall that 24 years ago we visited a Shanghai hospital to deal with Val's intransigence at not clearing her throat the way the Chinese would and hence, I think, a throat infection ensued. Well, this time two hours before leaving for LAX, Val managed to break a tooth. Being the daughter of a dentist, she had no pain--just a hole. Our stay in Nadi was extended until we found the right dentist, who was quite up-to-date and even used a laser to complete the work. We almost went to the wrong dentist but were saved by the owner of the Beachside Resort we were staying at. (picture).

Fiji

Saturday, October 21, 2006

Bula! Bula Vanaka! Greetings by the Fijians are warm and expected. The trees are filled with mangoes, dates, papaya. The birds are raucous - keeping us awake at night with their sharp cries and chirps. The weather is warm and quite comfortable - but the mosquitoes are ferocious. Tiny insects - itchy bumps. Oh well! We haven't been troubled by mosquitoes until now so we've puchased our mosquito spray and are now better armed for the fight.

Got off airplane at Nandi airport straight into the arms of Western Travel - warm and chatty Junior who steered us to his friens'd hostel - a rather dowdy depressing place - no hot water - Fiji run but lots of "Bulas" and chats. Had room from 8AM to next day and two breakfasts for $45 Fijian which is about $25 Can.

Met interesting backpackers there. First, a Spanish guy -weak English - travellling after working on a construction job in Tonga, then lovely Rens from Holland. Charming, friendly, bright, and curious - we spent our evening with him. He is an 18 year old traveller soon to go into medicine in the Netherlands.
After we had a nap and settled we went into Nandi town to look around. There were wonderful handicrafts - masks, amazing bowls of wood which are wonderfully polished and huge. There are also gorgeous mango-blackened carved clubs used for various unsavory endeavors such as picking out the brains of enemies or bashing in their heads. There are also gorgeous carved/inlaid serving wooden bowls in black and natural colours. The black is apparently achieved by burying them in a mango mush (??) or some such - which blackens the bowl and makes it more valuable- and beautiful.

Saturday night is Duvali - Arieh, Rens, and I are invited into a family compound to join family and friends in celebration. I visited with the women and children and took photos of them - Arieh and Rens drank kava - a special drink - in a Kavu ceremony. We were offered Indian sweets and soft drinks as well. The celebrators were Christian, Hindu and Moslem - so we were assured that the Kava drink was not alcoholic.

We've noticed much animosity between the Fijians and the Indo- Fijians - so very unfortunate! Travel agents, people on the street, taxi drivers complain about the other group with very little encouragement. I sense that some of the Indo-Fijians would love to leave the island and go to America or Australia New Zealand.

We've moved to Beachside resort - it's much more expensive - not close to town - but has a beautiful pool and grounds, great food, and a variety of tourists - from Britain, australia, New Zealand,etsc. We read, chat, swim --good life!

Southern California

Saturday, October 21st

Arieh here. We have arrived in Fiji. Actually, I am writing part of this in San Diego but you get the point. This picture is our last day in N.A. and the last day with our car! Note that this is the only time you will see Val carrying her own blue and bigger pack. It seems that is to be my job, "rightfully so" all of you will say.

We arrived in the Los Angeles area on Wednesday, October 11th after touring the Hearst Castle in San Simeon and driving the rest of the day down the coast. The castle really is something to see. Built in the 1920s and 30s, it took 15 years to build and a few of the concrete walls had to be torn down as the owner "changed his mind" about something or other. Not like moving a piece of drywall, eh? The castle is located on top of a mountain, about a 10 min. drive away from the coast. Huge piece of land, uncountable rooms, VERY large swimming pools and "stuff" from all over the world. Not a shred of coordination between one room to the other. Some of you would be very disappointed. For example, the dining room walls were covered in wood brought from some church in Europe including the little seats/vestibules that the priests used in their work. An adjacent room was covered in tapestries that had nothing to do with a church.

We were royally treated by Val's Aunt Syma and her children. We managed to take in a live Jay Leno show (featuring Sandra Bullock and Michael Caine--didn't you see me with my red hat and red CANADA shirt??) thanks to Edith and Josh followed by dinner in their Succah that night--a fantastic feast for a multitude (my boys will be so jealous of the food they missed). Naomi walked with us in Westwood Village and helped us reconnect to Val's family. We met Josh and Edith's children Hannah and Sammy for the first time and enjoyed seeing Amiad, Matty, (cousin Naomi's children) and Jacob once again. Unfortunately, we did not get to Las Vegas to see Leah and Jeff and children. Next time.

From L.A. we drove to Palm Springs to see my way older sister, Bette (pronounced Betty) Taback and spouse Gerry. What good hosts they are as well, although it was not a surprise. They live in an "Active Retirement Living" complex where one partner must be 55 or older. New homes, nice common community centre with pools, whirltub, tennis courts, bocce courts, etc. and lots of sun. For some reason, when the temperature was in the mid 20s C. (mid 70s F.), we were informed that this was coolish weather. Eitan and Avidan, you should write Aunty Bette and let her know the truth. Can't say I would like to live in Palm Springs year round but a visit to the desert is quite a big change--very quiet, a wide flat valley surrounded by treeless mountains and relatively dark at night (there is a city bylaw that restricts street lighting). On a previous trip we drove up to Joshua Tree National Park. That is very different place with lots of "Joshua Trees" and beautiful landscapes. It also gives you a great mountain top view of the valley below. In PS it is hard to walk around your neighbourhood unlike others cities I have lived in--Vancouver, Jerusalem, Toronto. Outside of my sister's community are wide long roads built for drivers and not walkers. One drives to any location outside of one's own community. There is a lively and walkable downtown in PS.

(Val here) That being said, I had lovely walks on a path around the perimeter of the complex. Saw hummingbirds and a few roadrunners.

After lovely times with Bette and Gerry - talking, eating, talking - we left for San Diego. My sister Joy greeted us. We went with her to some great restaurants and to a wonderful beach in La Jolla which was covered with seals lying in the sun - young seals, old seals, spotted seals, mottled seals. It was quite something to see. Expecially easy to photograph inasmuch as only an expert with excellent equipment can get a good picture of a seal in water or on a rock far away. The pelicans and cormorants continue to fascinate me.

Did some car paper work in San Diego and my sister is now owner of a wonderful new/used car that I think she will enjoy for some time! The mild weather will be so much nicer to our vehicle I give it a good 7 years more life, assuming loving kindness and good luck!

Drove to Los Angeles on Thursday (Oct. 19) spent some time with my cousin Joan and her husband Murray who kindly served us a lovely dinner and took us to Los Angeles airport to fly to Fiji.

We are in the U.S. of A.

Wednesday, October 4th

Arieh here. We are now in Nehalem Bay State Park in Oregon--only two days "behind schedule". Good news--we decided to leave North America. We fly out of LAX on October 9th, for Fiji, stay there for two weeks (not one) and then arrive in New Zealand on November 6th. Tickets ordered and paid for.

Besides that little tidbit, the Olympic peninsula is wonderful. Because we only arrive in Port Angeles around 5:30PM on Monday, we only managed to get a campsite, "pick up" two young Swiss travellers, showed them how to eat Indian food and went to sleep "under the stars" around 10PM--real late for us campers. In case you didn't notice, it is almost two weeks after Rosh HaShanah and that means the moon is waxing and getting brighter each night--no need for a flashlight for those "middle-of-the-night" excursions. When the moon sets, the stars are brilliant.

Back to the Olympic Peninsula. We drove up to Hurricane Ridge the next day--sea level to 1700 metres in a very short distance. I am sure people who do the Grouse Grind in Vancouver would have hiked to the ridge--we drove. At the top is a fantastic view of many of the tall peaks of the Olympic mountains--some of them glaciers and some just with snow. It was a beautifullly clear and crisp day and we ate a picnic breakast and walked around the ridges at the top for a couple of hours. In addition to little chipmunks and birds that ate out of our hand (Richard Cooper--see the picture), we also saw several black-tailed deer up close and personal. Back down to sea level and

west to the Pacific Ocean. Lunch beside a a beautiful lake and then made it to Holt Rain Forest. The trees there (and elsewhere on the North West of the O.P.) are huge Spruce, Cedar and Douglas Fir. The H.R.F. is a national park and there we walked and saw vegetation that was almost tropical--ferns, (picture) swamps, huge thick trees. I hurt my neck looking up at the top these giant trees. We also managed to visit the BIGGEST Western Red Cedar in the world (picture).


The campsite for that night was in Kalaloch (Clay-lock) State Park and it was perched on the very edge of the Pacific Ocean. The only thing between us and Hawaii was the water. Crashing and thunderous waves, huge driftwood logs and miles and miles of clean, "black" and wide sandy beaches. If the waves weren' t soothing, they would have kept us awake. As it is, our trusty Previa keeps out more noise than a tent.

Driving around the O.P. (and down the coast) there is ample evidence of clear-cut logging. In Washington they post signs when it was done, when it was replanted and withen the next harvest will take place--usually 60 years after replanting. In Oregon we discovered they just leave a thicket of trees about 25 metres wide on either side of the road so you cannot see the clear-cutting.


Val here:

Oct. 3
Drove up to Hurricane Ridge - beautiful vistas! Took some pictures of the deer. Then to Ho Rain Forest (after a delicious picnic lunch provided by Jodi and John). The trees of the forest were clothed in dry thick moss. Wonderful huge conifers were adorned with hanging green stuff! Lovely!
Camped at Kalalock near the Pacific - heard the roaring waves all night.

Oct. 4
Followed 101 south along the coast highway but first had breakfast at Kalalock Lodge in sight of gorgeous driftwood strewn beach. Then went down and walked along the beach. Lunch at Cape Disappointment State Park - but we were not disappointed - it was lovely. Gorgeous sunset at Nahalem Bay.

Oct. 5
Nehalem to Coos Bay Oregon. Lovely sights of beaches - cliffs with huge waves, enormous sand dunes.
Discovered three things:
1. the take-out window espresso kiosks that dot every little town throughout Oregon have wonderful lattes and cappucinos.
2. Oregon has the most remarkable coast ever!
3. Oregon campsites have what they call "Yurts". They are tent-like structures, named after the huts Mongolians live in - and they have heat and light. They are also very inexpensive and remarkably comfortable. What a find!





Oct. 6
Driving ,driving....
gorgeous sea vistas. The weather is warming up as we arrive in California. Saw spouting whales at Coos Bay - fins or tails appeared from time to time. We are at the redwoods forests and they are as exciting as anyone has ever told you! Our campsite is spectacular! The majesty of the redwoods diminishes our tiny van and other campers RVs. Had a fabulous dinner at Myers Flats (population 200) - only restaurant for miles - best pizza I've ever eaten! (Brie and asparagus with grapes drizzled with white truffle oil - hungry??) The cheesecake with raspberry drizzle was wonderful. Off to sleep beneath the redwoods.

Oct. 7
Woke up to look through the back window of the van as I lay on the comfortable inflated mattress - saw huge redwoods - must be a thousand years old. Went to the Visitors Centre opposite Burlington campground where we slept. Learned lots about the redwoods. Took a gorgeous walk through the trees - huge, awesome - and to the Eel River - almost a stream now but in the 60's twice destoryed the towns in the area when it flooded.



Oct. 8.
Stayed in Santa Rosa in preparation for a half day in wine country. Went to a restaurant that specialized in turkey (??!) for supper.
Found a wine tasting venue that was recommended by the visitors centre. Us and about 200 French tourists. Left there and discovered a Cline winery - a museum with miniatures of the missions behind the building, cages of colourful quails, doves and ornamental chickens near the deck, a comfortable amount of tasters - and --good red wine! It was a treat.

Off to visit Lara in Berkely. Went by public transport (the BART) to San Francisco and saw the air show they timed for our visit. Took the ferry back to Berkely - great views of the city and the harbour - then drove up the mountain to get fabulous view of San Francisco from above UC Berkely. Wow!

Oct. 9
Arieh and I walked around Berkely campus. Two great discoveries: the Doe Library - a mixture of light literature, archival books, travel books (Lonely Planet mostly - but some for birdwatchers!), and a huge globe created in 1889. This university Library room was dead silent - partly because of all the students curled up on couches sleeping.
We also discovered a wonderful Botanical garden! They had plants from all over the world and each of them was labelled. We spent about two hours wandering there.
Had a lovely dinner prepared by Lara and shared with her housemates and children - lovely times with wine and chocolate covered pretzels.

Remarkable people we've met along the way

Val here.
There are highlights as we've travelled across Canada. The scenery is spectacular. Nothing is comparable with north of Lake Superior in September. The sun shines on silent lakes in empty campgrounds. Provincial parks are almost deserted except for diehard campers more often in campers than in tents. The prairies - no longer covered with huge Canadian Shield flat rocks, now resplendent with yellow fields, huge skies, little surprises in charming gift/gallery stores and lone coyotes travelling at the road. Wonderful eggs and pies cooked with friendship. And then the mountains appear with their vertigo-inducing canyons.

But the real beauty of travelling across Canada is the people you meet. We encounter two friendly women from Marathon, each with a small child in tow and a friendly, black sand covered dog. They greet us warmly, telling us that they spend their summers and September weekends at White Lake Provincial Park until it gets too cold. They've parked a shared trailer and laugh and sing and babysit into each evening.

We picked up our only hitchiker just north of Superior in a beautiful area! He looked totally benign, a tall, clean-cut windblown fellow in his thirties, holding a kayak paddle. We drove him to his car so that he could return to pick up his three buddies who had been kayaking with him for the last five days. Lake Superior, he informed us, is known to be as good as the oceans for kayaking. He is a lawyer from Chicago who recommends that we stay at a resort down the way and take time from our trip to take kayak lessons. We are sorely tempted, but leave him with his map and paddle and drive on.

We stop to stare at another gorgeous lake and meet an elderly couple from Nova Scotia. They are driving to visit their daughter in Edmonton, explaining that most years they go all the way to the Arctic for a month or two. Her husband loves driving, she explains. They happily invite us into their camper van and extoll the virtues of the toilet and showernf facilities. They point out the little shelves they have constructed to make their camper lives more comfortable. Shirley, (she introduces herself), is delighted with her special email retriever, that captures or displays and sends emails from a public telephone for free.

We were having a quick lunch in the back of our van in the parking lot of the Lake Louise Hotel, when a German woman, a tiny dog shivering in her vest, comes to chat. She and her husband are moving from Fort St. John to Duncan, B.C. to continue farming. I go with her to inspect her other three miniature Domermans in their pick-up truck. Her husband joins her and they get in the truck to continue the adventure that is their life.

The hosts at Bed and breakfast stays greet you like they'd never had guests before. They are warm and welcoming. A young couple in Indian Head, Sasktchewan took time from their busy life to tell us a bit about themselves. The husband is a banker for RBC - but his first love is definitely golf. Hence the name of the B and B - The Golf View. His wife had just been appointed principal of a K to Grade 12 school of 63 students. Needless to say, they were having difficulty finding a Science specialist to work a part of a day to teach the senior students. We were greeted by husband and wife in Golden, B.C. The husband was off with his son to paint new houses in Inverness. In Sorrento, B. C., an older couple own an extraordinary house with a gorgeous view overlooking Shushwap Lake. They do missionary work in Africa each year. "join us for tea and telebision this evening, if you wish", they intone. We join them and are delighted with their open, accepting view of the world. In the morning we eat breakfast in a gorgeous atrium with a yellow canary freely flying around the Italian wrought iron tables and chairs while we look out the window at chickadees at the feeder.

At one of the B and B's we met a couple from a tiny university town in Wales who had travelled extensively and worked as Librarians in Baltimore. They told us of their travels in Europe.

We moved into the States. In a campground near Port Angeles, Washington, evening was approaching as we saw a youg couple standing beside their van looking rather confused. They are a Swiss couple from Zurich - he, a plumber of 23 years old, she a possible student at the cusp of choosing her future. She is 19 years old. They were looking for somewhere to pay their campsite fees. Many campsites at this time of year are on an honour system and have little or no staff - so you leave money in an envelope. Martin and Melanie join us for their first Indian meal in a rathe good restaurant in small Port Angeles. They explain that they are afraid to cook because they had encountered several bears and bear cubs in their campsite the night before near Cowichan on Vancouver Island. He also explained that he was travelling for 6 months. He had already spent 10 weeks in a language school learning English in North Vancouver (his English was remarkably good!). He'd stayed with a homestay family. Melanie was travelling with him for only three weeks and then returning to Zurich from Seattle. Martin had bought the car from his host family and planned to sell it at the end of his time in North America. What a pleasant time we had with them!

There are also those wonderful people who we know and love - they are the friends and family who have nurtured and fed us after nights of camping in our van. They take us touring and hiking in Winnipeg, Calgary, Vancouver, Victoria. Give us clean sheets and lovely wine and desserts. We are treated like royalty. We move down to the U. S. and have more wonderful hospitality in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Palm Springs, San Diego. These are the priceless coterie of individuals and families who envelope us in hospitality and warmth! Thank you!