Fiji

Saturday, October 21, 2006

Bula! Bula Vanaka! Greetings by the Fijians are warm and expected. The trees are filled with mangoes, dates, papaya. The birds are raucous - keeping us awake at night with their sharp cries and chirps. The weather is warm and quite comfortable - but the mosquitoes are ferocious. Tiny insects - itchy bumps. Oh well! We haven't been troubled by mosquitoes until now so we've puchased our mosquito spray and are now better armed for the fight.

Got off airplane at Nandi airport straight into the arms of Western Travel - warm and chatty Junior who steered us to his friens'd hostel - a rather dowdy depressing place - no hot water - Fiji run but lots of "Bulas" and chats. Had room from 8AM to next day and two breakfasts for $45 Fijian which is about $25 Can.

Met interesting backpackers there. First, a Spanish guy -weak English - travellling after working on a construction job in Tonga, then lovely Rens from Holland. Charming, friendly, bright, and curious - we spent our evening with him. He is an 18 year old traveller soon to go into medicine in the Netherlands.
After we had a nap and settled we went into Nandi town to look around. There were wonderful handicrafts - masks, amazing bowls of wood which are wonderfully polished and huge. There are also gorgeous mango-blackened carved clubs used for various unsavory endeavors such as picking out the brains of enemies or bashing in their heads. There are also gorgeous carved/inlaid serving wooden bowls in black and natural colours. The black is apparently achieved by burying them in a mango mush (??) or some such - which blackens the bowl and makes it more valuable- and beautiful.

Saturday night is Duvali - Arieh, Rens, and I are invited into a family compound to join family and friends in celebration. I visited with the women and children and took photos of them - Arieh and Rens drank kava - a special drink - in a Kavu ceremony. We were offered Indian sweets and soft drinks as well. The celebrators were Christian, Hindu and Moslem - so we were assured that the Kava drink was not alcoholic.

We've noticed much animosity between the Fijians and the Indo- Fijians - so very unfortunate! Travel agents, people on the street, taxi drivers complain about the other group with very little encouragement. I sense that some of the Indo-Fijians would love to leave the island and go to America or Australia New Zealand.

We've moved to Beachside resort - it's much more expensive - not close to town - but has a beautiful pool and grounds, great food, and a variety of tourists - from Britain, australia, New Zealand,etsc. We read, chat, swim --good life!