Chuc Mung Nam Moi

February 11, 2007
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Arieh here. Chuc Mung Nam Moi, or as we say in the vernacular "Shanah Tovah". Val has gone off on a tour of the "tunnels" outside of HCMC--those used by the Viet Minh in their independence struggle against the French and then later repaired and used against the Americans and the South Vietnamese by the Viet Cong. I will see untouched tunnels in the Demilitarized Zone in a week or so. In the meantime, I am walking around HCMC.

I started off in a park near our hotel. This park is normally a green space (apparently created in the last 4 years) about 75 metres wide by about 1 KM long. It has grass, gardens, trees, walking paths and places to sit. I say "normally" because I think it looks different today (and this time of year) because of the Vietnamese Tet holiday (same same but different as Chinese New Year). Today all the grassy areas are covered by vendors--I am sure they all have permission. However, the products beidng sold are actually enhancing the park. Big and small flowering plants, green-leafed plants, bushes that produce tiny oranges, small trees in large pots, small trees showing elaborate root systems above the earth level, and, of course, some drink vendors. Some of the leafy bushes have been cut in the shape of little piggies (Year of the Pig); some are in the shape of a small dragon (with ears, tongue and eys stuck in the leaves to give the face). Maybe these are the dragons of my wild sexual dreams??

I am now sitting in the middle of a traffic circle near the old Hotel de Ville. It is now called the Peoples' Committee Building. The traffic circle has a beautiful fountain and flowers in the centre and sitting blocks surrounding it. Last night we were here (on the rooftop of the Rex Hotel) and the streets were full of traffic--comparatively few cars but thousands of motorcycles. For the 6 million people here I am sure there are more than 4 million "motos". Crossing the street, as described in all the tourists books, is an adventure and a half. Don't ever stop walking; just keep watching and going across!! The traffic is expecting you to keep going and will go around you (either in front or back). If you stop, you endanger everyone. HCMC has many wide boulevards (like Paris) and the one near the PCB is being fixed up and made even more beautiful.

For walking and I even tired myself out. After walking down to the Saigon river (and being approached by friends of "Miss Saigon") and back to the PCB I continued on to the War Remnants Museum. It is rather interesting, albeit with some very disturbing exhibits and photos of the effects of war and torture on humans and nature. Old U.S. tanks, jets, and other planes on display, as well as examples of prison cells used by both the French (prior to 1954) and the South Vietnamese until 1975. Not surprisingly, not a lot of mention of U.S. POWs. So, after that museum, I was tired, broke down and took a cycle cab to the Notre Dame Cathedral, where I am now sitting enjoying some sort of chanting and organ as a prelude to a Mass service.