March 17, 2007
Bangkok, Thailand
Arieh here. We are back in Bangkok. Next stop Burma (Myanmar) on March 20th and then maybe on to India, if we can get a visa in good time.
Last night we celebrated Shabbat here at Chabad House. They have a VERY big presence here in Thailand and, I suspect, in other cities in this part of the world. Services began at 6:20 PM. Separate for male and female. Very big michitzah for the women behind the men. Lots of male daveners and mostly Israeli. In fact, the whole service was geared to Israelis. I found that kind of surprising, but when 90% of the audience is from Israel I guess that makes sense.
The service was Orthodox and the tunes were essentially non-existent in that there was really only one. It was more like an up and down way of reading with some emphasis on some words at particular times. Not a lot of variation, but easy to pick up. At times I would stop following the service and look around at the men. Mostly young. Most of them wearing the kippah provided by Chabad House, Thailand (black). 20% of the men weren't really that comfortable being there. Many of the others, in my opinion, were not what one would call "Orthodox". I say that because I am assuming that those wearing the black kippah provided did not have their own while travelling and therefore were not that Orthodox. However, many of those were very comfortable with the service. I found that striking. Either they used to be observant or they got a thorough education on davening. Val said there were about 15 women in the women's section for davening.
After services, dinner. For dinner, there were about 200 people. Most of them, I am sure, did not preregister (we arrived at 3 PM and did not preregister) yet there was plenty of food and places. Chabad House was very organized. Singing first, Kiddush, Motzi, and eating. More singing, a Drash, and then we left (before Birkat HaMazon--oy!). Glad we went; nice to be with the tribe.
March 19, 2007
Off to Burma tomorrow. Poor to bad internet connections.
A blog for travelers from the Waldman family. Val and Arieh started in Sept. 2006 for one year and traveled around the world 24 years after their first year-long adventure. In Jan. 2008 Eitan traveled in S.E. Asia for 5 months. He then continued with his girlfriend, Evelyn, in S. America in Oct. 2009 for 10 weeks. And then Avidan headed for India for 5 months starting in March, 2010. Read all about our different travels, including some short trips.
Friday, March 16, 2007
Thursday, March 15, 2007
Trekking in Laos (by Sue R)
March 14, 2007
Luang Prabang, Laos
In case anyone is wondering, we've spent our two weeks in Laos with our wonderful friend, Sue R. G. Yaron was kind enough to lend her to us. (See the entry "Two wives in Laos").
Here's Sue's blog contribution (with a few changes and additions by Val). Pictures to follow on this posting.
We are back from our 2 day trek in the mountainous region east of Luang Prabang in central Laos. Out group was made up of Arieh, Val and I plus three other people: Etta, mother and 23 year old daughter Tamara from Toronto, who live at Avenue Rd. and St. Clair, and the daughter's childhood friend from Switzerland, John Christian. The trek was a little more strenous than I expected (you can say that again says Val!) but it was a wonderful experience. We walked for about 15 km. which was OK for me (Val writes: Did she mention that it was about 30 degrees C. and sometimes at a 45 degree angle?). We stopped in one village for lunch. The open lunch room where we ate doubled as a make-shift classroom for this poor Hmong village. After lunch, we trekked on to a Khmu village for supper and sleeping. The Hmong were the group that aided the U.S. during the Vietnamese war (American war, if you are Vietnamese) and consequently were persecuted by the Laos people. Many became refugees and settled in the US. I remember hearing about their community when we lived in Minneapolis. I finally got my answer to the question who are the Hmong? Our guides were actually 2 Hmongs, the most wonderful young men I ever met in terms of humour and positive attitude to life. They were patient and encouraging guides, good cooks, and we had a great time playing a Thai card game they taught us in the evening. In fact I find all Laotions absolutely wonderful! They smile, they are cheerful and positive, very honest, and most dignified. These people don't take themselves seriously; they have a great sense of humour. I find myself with a smile whenever I interact with them.
We arrived at the Khmu village that was to be our homestay. The kids of the village spent a lot of time just watching us. We would take pictures of them and then we would show them the digital pictures. They laughed and followed us around. The people live very simple lives with dogs, pigs, goats, chickens, and ducks running around in the village. Every dirt floor and the dirt compound is swept completely clean. Garbage is burned. Even some of the pigs tried to used the toilets and shower (cold) when the doors weren't closed. The school consists of 2 rooms, one for the higher grades and the other for lower ones. Picure 2 rooms in thatched huts with dirt floors, long benches and a whiteboard at the front. Some looked like the school we saw at Pioneer Village but much more primitive. In the evening the generator would start and work from 6 to 9 in the evening. This was a village with no electricity. Then the music started and the children danced with us. They all laughed as we showed them the macarena. After the music stopped , our guides made us supper. The children watched as we masticated, giggling and commenting on those funny Europeans. An evening activity was planned for them by the village: many of them gathered in one room to watch a movie. Although many of the villages we have visited have dirt floors and thatched roofs, there is always a satellite dish. This seems a bizarre contrast to their very simple life. After sleeping in dormitory style accomodations with hard mattresses dividers constructed of bamboo and protected from mosquitos by nets, we awoke to a wonderful breakfast made by our giudes. This was followed by a 2 hour hike down the mountain and then a three hour kayak down the Khan River. We arrived back in Luang Prabang by about 3 pm tired but happy.
Arieh here. Today we returned to Luang Prabang after a two-day hiking and kayak trip. The first day was 15 KM of hiking mostly in hot sun. It was kind of tough on Val but she made it to 800 metres above sea level from our 400 metre startng point. We then went down to about 500 and stopped at a village for overnight.
The village, unlike the others we have seen around LP, was very UNtouristed. No roads in; only paths. They had electricity with a generator that ran from 6 to 9 PM only. Many of the villagers were crowded around one of the big TVs in the village watching a movie. Payment for them was $0.05 per person. We actually were able to have a "private" shower (unlike the villagers who shower around an outdoor pump). The water was cold and came out of a tube. It was actually really quite enjoyable after the 15 KM of hiking. Sleeping was dorm style (Val and I had our own 2-person section) and with mosquito nets. The two guides (for 6 of us) carried the food and extra water. We carried water and sleepng bags and our day pack. The guides cooked. The second day was spent walking about 2 hours and then kayaking and swimming for about 3 hours. Very shallow river and very little current helping us. Hard on the arms today, but not very strenuous on legs or heart. A good day and back to our hotel by about 3:30 PM.
The other 3 people were actually good folk from Toronto and Switzerland (Mother, daughter and friend). We then met for coffee at 6 PM at a great bakery and Val and I received good pointers about India from the daughter and friend.
Luang Prabang, Laos
In case anyone is wondering, we've spent our two weeks in Laos with our wonderful friend, Sue R. G. Yaron was kind enough to lend her to us. (See the entry "Two wives in Laos").
Here's Sue's blog contribution (with a few changes and additions by Val). Pictures to follow on this posting.
We are back from our 2 day trek in the mountainous region east of Luang Prabang in central Laos. Out group was made up of Arieh, Val and I plus three other people: Etta, mother and 23 year old daughter Tamara from Toronto, who live at Avenue Rd. and St. Clair, and the daughter's childhood friend from Switzerland, John Christian. The trek was a little more strenous than I expected (you can say that again says Val!) but it was a wonderful experience. We walked for about 15 km. which was OK for me (Val writes: Did she mention that it was about 30 degrees C. and sometimes at a 45 degree angle?). We stopped in one village for lunch. The open lunch room where we ate doubled as a make-shift classroom for this poor Hmong village. After lunch, we trekked on to a Khmu village for supper and sleeping. The Hmong were the group that aided the U.S. during the Vietnamese war (American war, if you are Vietnamese) and consequently were persecuted by the Laos people. Many became refugees and settled in the US. I remember hearing about their community when we lived in Minneapolis. I finally got my answer to the question who are the Hmong? Our guides were actually 2 Hmongs, the most wonderful young men I ever met in terms of humour and positive attitude to life. They were patient and encouraging guides, good cooks, and we had a great time playing a Thai card game they taught us in the evening. In fact I find all Laotions absolutely wonderful! They smile, they are cheerful and positive, very honest, and most dignified. These people don't take themselves seriously; they have a great sense of humour. I find myself with a smile whenever I interact with them.
We arrived at the Khmu village that was to be our homestay. The kids of the village spent a lot of time just watching us. We would take pictures of them and then we would show them the digital pictures. They laughed and followed us around. The people live very simple lives with dogs, pigs, goats, chickens, and ducks running around in the village. Every dirt floor and the dirt compound is swept completely clean. Garbage is burned. Even some of the pigs tried to used the toilets and shower (cold) when the doors weren't closed. The school consists of 2 rooms, one for the higher grades and the other for lower ones. Picure 2 rooms in thatched huts with dirt floors, long benches and a whiteboard at the front. Some looked like the school we saw at Pioneer Village but much more primitive. In the evening the generator would start and work from 6 to 9 in the evening. This was a village with no electricity. Then the music started and the children danced with us. They all laughed as we showed them the macarena. After the music stopped , our guides made us supper. The children watched as we masticated, giggling and commenting on those funny Europeans. An evening activity was planned for them by the village: many of them gathered in one room to watch a movie. Although many of the villages we have visited have dirt floors and thatched roofs, there is always a satellite dish. This seems a bizarre contrast to their very simple life. After sleeping in dormitory style accomodations with hard mattresses dividers constructed of bamboo and protected from mosquitos by nets, we awoke to a wonderful breakfast made by our giudes. This was followed by a 2 hour hike down the mountain and then a three hour kayak down the Khan River. We arrived back in Luang Prabang by about 3 pm tired but happy.
Arieh here. Today we returned to Luang Prabang after a two-day hiking and kayak trip. The first day was 15 KM of hiking mostly in hot sun. It was kind of tough on Val but she made it to 800 metres above sea level from our 400 metre startng point. We then went down to about 500 and stopped at a village for overnight.
The village, unlike the others we have seen around LP, was very UNtouristed. No roads in; only paths. They had electricity with a generator that ran from 6 to 9 PM only. Many of the villagers were crowded around one of the big TVs in the village watching a movie. Payment for them was $0.05 per person. We actually were able to have a "private" shower (unlike the villagers who shower around an outdoor pump). The water was cold and came out of a tube. It was actually really quite enjoyable after the 15 KM of hiking. Sleeping was dorm style (Val and I had our own 2-person section) and with mosquito nets. The two guides (for 6 of us) carried the food and extra water. We carried water and sleepng bags and our day pack. The guides cooked. The second day was spent walking about 2 hours and then kayaking and swimming for about 3 hours. Very shallow river and very little current helping us. Hard on the arms today, but not very strenuous on legs or heart. A good day and back to our hotel by about 3:30 PM.
The other 3 people were actually good folk from Toronto and Switzerland (Mother, daughter and friend). We then met for coffee at 6 PM at a great bakery and Val and I received good pointers about India from the daughter and friend.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
SPECIAL POSTING FOR MICHELLE FROM CALIFORNIA
March 14, 2007
Hey, Michelle (from California). We, of course, remember you. However, we cannot contact you by e-mail as you did not send us an e-mail!!!!!
Please send a message to the e-mail address we gave you.
Arieh
Hey, Michelle (from California). We, of course, remember you. However, we cannot contact you by e-mail as you did not send us an e-mail!!!!!
Please send a message to the e-mail address we gave you.
Arieh
Saturday, March 10, 2007
TWO (2) Wives in Laos
March 9, 2007
Luang Prabang, Laos
Arieh here. As I wrote we arrived here a few days ago--me and my two wives (see picture of previous post). Our good friend, Sue R., joined us in Vientiane (only 24 hours late). If I thought travelling with only one wife was a challenge, I should have known better. Trying to get two women to do what I want is far more difficult than pulling the wool over one set of eyes. The Lao people think this is really quite funny--me travelling with two wives. Some have offered me a third wife from Laos; some look sorry for me. Sue has been quick to point out to one and all that she is not Wife Number Two (WNT). Val (WNO) is quite serene and secure in her demeanor and position and I keep milking this for all it is worth.
Whatever Sue's status it has been a lot of fun travelling with her. She has provided a fresh set of eyes to our two pair of well-travelled eyes. We set off one day on a walking tour of LP and, by golly, we were going to see every pagoda and stupa listed or the day would be a failure. Val's wanting to stop for a coffee break after only one hour of walking was met with a look of astonishment and disbelief on the part of WNT. Thankfully, WNO prevailed for I was ready to stop as well.
We have successfully recovered from our unexpected itinerary change and have had a lot of fun here in LP. Two full days of trips on the Mekong have compensated us for missing out on the two days we would have had from the Thai border. In fact, the two days on the Mekong around LP were probably better--we were able to stop at sights around town and the 3 of us were in control of our boat. (see picture) We also met some people who did the trip we missed. There were more than 40 on the boat and one woman gave birth on one of the days. Life on the Mekong is very different here than in the Delta (Vietnam). Much less populated, quite mountainous (albeit hazy from the "slash and burn" rice field-clearing technique), and more kids and adults playing or washing by the riverside.

We even stopped for a photo-op with some kids bringing the water buffalo back home. The kids were standing ("look, mom, no hands") on the back of the water buffalo as the water buffalo walked.


One of our stops was at a pottery making village. We were able to walk around, visit (albeit not able to communicate) with the locals and try our hand at some potter making. The whole family is involved in whatever a particular family does. Kids mush the clay, parents do the real big jobs, kids help show the tourists and then try to earn a little pocket money by selling some of their own little creations.
The sunsets are really quite different here at this time of year and in this part of Laos. We have been sitting at restaurants about 30 metres above the level of the Mekong and watching the sun set. Around 5:30 (both here and in Vientiane) the sun is a red ball and then disappears into the haze not to be seen until the next morning. The odd part is that it disappears about 60 minutes worth of time ABOVE the horizon. The sunrises are the reverse. The sun finally breaks through the haze around 8 AM, well after sunrise.
Finally, Luang Prabang has a great outdoor night market. Everything produced in the area is brought in every night and sold to anyone willing to walk up and down the main street. With the warm weather, it is quite a nice idea.

Luang Prabang, Laos
Arieh here. As I wrote we arrived here a few days ago--me and my two wives (see picture of previous post). Our good friend, Sue R., joined us in Vientiane (only 24 hours late). If I thought travelling with only one wife was a challenge, I should have known better. Trying to get two women to do what I want is far more difficult than pulling the wool over one set of eyes. The Lao people think this is really quite funny--me travelling with two wives. Some have offered me a third wife from Laos; some look sorry for me. Sue has been quick to point out to one and all that she is not Wife Number Two (WNT). Val (WNO) is quite serene and secure in her demeanor and position and I keep milking this for all it is worth.
Whatever Sue's status it has been a lot of fun travelling with her. She has provided a fresh set of eyes to our two pair of well-travelled eyes. We set off one day on a walking tour of LP and, by golly, we were going to see every pagoda and stupa listed or the day would be a failure. Val's wanting to stop for a coffee break after only one hour of walking was met with a look of astonishment and disbelief on the part of WNT. Thankfully, WNO prevailed for I was ready to stop as well.
We even stopped for a photo-op with some kids bringing the water buffalo back home. The kids were standing ("look, mom, no hands") on the back of the water buffalo as the water buffalo walked.
One of our stops was at a pottery making village. We were able to walk around, visit (albeit not able to communicate) with the locals and try our hand at some potter making. The whole family is involved in whatever a particular family does. Kids mush the clay, parents do the real big jobs, kids help show the tourists and then try to earn a little pocket money by selling some of their own little creations.
The sunsets are really quite different here at this time of year and in this part of Laos. We have been sitting at restaurants about 30 metres above the level of the Mekong and watching the sun set. Around 5:30 (both here and in Vientiane) the sun is a red ball and then disappears into the haze not to be seen until the next morning. The odd part is that it disappears about 60 minutes worth of time ABOVE the horizon. The sunrises are the reverse. The sun finally breaks through the haze around 8 AM, well after sunrise.
Finally, Luang Prabang has a great outdoor night market. Everything produced in the area is brought in every night and sold to anyone willing to walk up and down the main street. With the warm weather, it is quite a nice idea.
Flying in Laos
March 6, 2007
Vientiane, Laos (more accurately--on the plane to Houei Xai).
Arieh here. We made it to Laos (DON'T pronounce the "s")--the home of the Plain of Jars, the CIA's "Secret War" in the 1960s and 70s, and a very different lifestyle compared to Vietnam. According to our Lonely Planet guidebook, if whatever the Lao people are doing does not include the concept of "muan" (fun) then it it not a great idea. This manifests itself in the closing of shops for an hour at lunch, the closing of stores at 5PM and the closing of restaurants around 9 or 10PM (in the capital city, no less!). In VN, everything is open from early AM to late PM. In fact, there is another quote from LP that is kind of funny (but not so complimentary): "The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch the rice grow, and the Lao people listen to the rice grow.". The other huge and noticeable difference between Laos and VN is traffic. In Laos there are many less people, cars and "motos". The driving style is also extremely different in that the horn is not used as a replacement for brakes, the drivers slow down for pedestrians when they are crossing the street, and the drivers actually look over their shoulder before changing lanes.
I wrote at the beginning of this entry that we were flying on the way to Houei Xai. This is a border town across from Thailand in the Northwest of Laos. It is a 1-hour flight. We were flying there (one way) so we could take a boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang (a UNESCO-designated heritage town), be in LP for 3 or 4 days and then take 2 days getting back to Vientiane before flying on to Bangkok. Sounds pretty simple and organized, right? WRONG. First we couldn't get on the flight for Tuesday, 9AM (there are only 3 flights per week). Our choices were to fly "standby" (needed 3 seats, no less) or reverse direction, go overland and fly back. Off to the airport we went at 7 AM and, wonders never cease, by 8 AM we were told we could board the flight. Which we did. We flew all the way to Houei Xai and back again WITHOUT landing. Too much haze and not enough radar, apparently. So, back to Vientiane by 10 AM. "Come back at 1 PM" they say to us. Off we go for breakfast (no food was provided on the flight) and we show up at 1 PM. When does the flight leave? Maybe Wednesday morning. What do we do? We change plans--we fly to LP at 13:40 and all is well. We actually do land.
And guess who was on the plane with us? Some "guy" got on the plane last, sat near the rear (just in front of the 3 of us) and was accorded special treatment both on the plane and upon arrival (off first and met with an entourage and car on the tarmac). Turns out it was the President of Laos (according to the flight attendant), well-liked by the "people", and travelling as one of us. It was quite unbelievable (compared to Western-style PMs and Presidents), but just part of life in Laos. The other curiosity about our 13:40 flight was that it was full. That's because the 12:15 flight was cancelled and those passengers were combined with ours to make for a more economically viable run. Obviously, any student of economics could tell you that a full flight is better than 2 half-empty flights, n'est-ce pas?
Vientiane, Laos (more accurately--on the plane to Houei Xai).
Arieh here. We made it to Laos (DON'T pronounce the "s")--the home of the Plain of Jars, the CIA's "Secret War" in the 1960s and 70s, and a very different lifestyle compared to Vietnam. According to our Lonely Planet guidebook, if whatever the Lao people are doing does not include the concept of "muan" (fun) then it it not a great idea. This manifests itself in the closing of shops for an hour at lunch, the closing of stores at 5PM and the closing of restaurants around 9 or 10PM (in the capital city, no less!). In VN, everything is open from early AM to late PM. In fact, there is another quote from LP that is kind of funny (but not so complimentary): "The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch the rice grow, and the Lao people listen to the rice grow.". The other huge and noticeable difference between Laos and VN is traffic. In Laos there are many less people, cars and "motos". The driving style is also extremely different in that the horn is not used as a replacement for brakes, the drivers slow down for pedestrians when they are crossing the street, and the drivers actually look over their shoulder before changing lanes.
I wrote at the beginning of this entry that we were flying on the way to Houei Xai. This is a border town across from Thailand in the Northwest of Laos. It is a 1-hour flight. We were flying there (one way) so we could take a boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang (a UNESCO-designated heritage town), be in LP for 3 or 4 days and then take 2 days getting back to Vientiane before flying on to Bangkok. Sounds pretty simple and organized, right? WRONG. First we couldn't get on the flight for Tuesday, 9AM (there are only 3 flights per week). Our choices were to fly "standby" (needed 3 seats, no less) or reverse direction, go overland and fly back. Off to the airport we went at 7 AM and, wonders never cease, by 8 AM we were told we could board the flight. Which we did. We flew all the way to Houei Xai and back again WITHOUT landing. Too much haze and not enough radar, apparently. So, back to Vientiane by 10 AM. "Come back at 1 PM" they say to us. Off we go for breakfast (no food was provided on the flight) and we show up at 1 PM. When does the flight leave? Maybe Wednesday morning. What do we do? We change plans--we fly to LP at 13:40 and all is well. We actually do land.
And guess who was on the plane with us? Some "guy" got on the plane last, sat near the rear (just in front of the 3 of us) and was accorded special treatment both on the plane and upon arrival (off first and met with an entourage and car on the tarmac). Turns out it was the President of Laos (according to the flight attendant), well-liked by the "people", and travelling as one of us. It was quite unbelievable (compared to Western-style PMs and Presidents), but just part of life in Laos. The other curiosity about our 13:40 flight was that it was full. That's because the 12:15 flight was cancelled and those passengers were combined with ours to make for a more economically viable run. Obviously, any student of economics could tell you that a full flight is better than 2 half-empty flights, n'est-ce pas?
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Halong Bay, Viet Nam
March 1, 2007
Halong Bay, Vietnam
Val here.
Our large boat accomodated 12 people in cosy rooms with window and bathrooms and even hot water (when the generator was on).
After a comfortable night on the boat including delicious meals (and the opportunity to buy pearls at your very table), Christelle, Catherine, Arieh, guide Chien, and I manouevred our way into a small boat and left the others. We cruised to a small village on Cat Bo Island. To get the the village they provided bicycles - but 3 of us opted to take a moto (you jump on a motorcycle with your driver). Arieh and Chien chose to ride bicycles.
Chien took us on a walk through the town and into the national park where we visited a half-built traditional village with deserted large houses and even a temple of Literature - a place of study. Apparently a wealthy American has a Viet Namese wife and wants to give this fabricated village as a tourist magnet - a traditional village. It was most interesting and I do hope it works out for them. In the meantime, the wife's brother and family live on the property and protect it until the government willingly removes impediments to its completion.
The five of us returned to our boat for a delicious lunch. We then cruised to a different spot near the rock formations and kayaked into a lovely coral area, going through a hole in the rock and into a gorgeous area (see photo).
The sea was calm and the weather cool and comfortable. The overcast skies made the rock formations that surrounded us all the more mysterious and beautiful.
That evening we slept in a hotel at another part of Cat Bo Island and the next day the small boat ferried us to the large boat. Then back to Hanoi. I should mention that much like the land traffic of V. N., the boat traffic and parking was a mess. We had to walk through 4 parked boats to get to the wharf. Ah, Viet Nam!!
That evening we slept in a hotel at another part of Cat Bo Island and the next day the small boat ferried us to the large boat. Then back to Hanoi. I should mention that much like the land traffic of V. N., the boat traffic and parking was a mess. We had to walk through 4 parked boats to get to the wharf. Ah, Viet Nam!!
We couldn't thank Chien enough for his warm and wonderful personality and knowledge. We also enjoyed the company of our new friends Christelle and Catherine and hope to see them again somewhere, sometime. We had so many laughs and such fun beating them in the kayaks (hope they're not reading this...)
The holiday from the holiday is over. A complete success. If Allison is reading this - the tour was organized by the Viet Anh Hotel (our booking elsewhere fell through because of a sick boat) - the price was right and it was an excellent tour. I guess things have changed since you were there.
Now to Laos!
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