Trekking in Laos (by Sue R)

March 14, 2007
Luang Prabang, Laos

In case anyone is wondering, we've spent our two weeks in Laos with our wonderful friend, Sue R. G. Yaron was kind enough to lend her to us. (See the entry "Two wives in Laos").

Here's Sue's blog contribution (with a few changes and additions by Val). Pictures to follow on this posting.

We are back from our 2 day trek in the mountainous region east of Luang Prabang in central Laos. Out group was made up of Arieh, Val and I plus three other people: Etta, mother and 23 year old daughter Tamara from Toronto, who live at Avenue Rd. and St. Clair, and the daughter's childhood friend from Switzerland, John Christian. The trek was a little more strenous than I expected (you can say that again says Val!) but it was a wonderful experience. We walked for about 15 km. which was OK for me (Val writes: Did she mention that it was about 30 degrees C. and sometimes at a 45 degree angle?). We stopped in one village for lunch. The open lunch room where we ate doubled as a make-shift classroom for this poor Hmong village. After lunch, we trekked on to a Khmu village for supper and sleeping. The Hmong were the group that aided the U.S. during the Vietnamese war (American war, if you are Vietnamese) and consequently were persecuted by the Laos people. Many became refugees and settled in the US. I remember hearing about their community when we lived in Minneapolis. I finally got my answer to the question who are the Hmong? Our guides were actually 2 Hmongs, the most wonderful young men I ever met in terms of humour and positive attitude to life. They were patient and encouraging guides, good cooks, and we had a great time playing a Thai card game they taught us in the evening. In fact I find all Laotions absolutely wonderful! They smile, they are cheerful and positive, very honest, and most dignified. These people don't take themselves seriously; they have a great sense of humour. I find myself with a smile whenever I interact with them.

We arrived at the Khmu village that was to be our homestay. The kids of the village spent a lot of time just watching us. We would take pictures of them and then we would show them the digital pictures. They laughed and followed us around. The people live very simple lives with dogs, pigs, goats, chickens, and ducks running around in the village. Every dirt floor and the dirt compound is swept completely clean. Garbage is burned. Even some of the pigs tried to used the toilets and shower (cold) when the doors weren't closed. The school consists of 2 rooms, one for the higher grades and the other for lower ones. Picure 2 rooms in thatched huts with dirt floors, long benches and a whiteboard at the front. Some looked like the school we saw at Pioneer Village but much more primitive. In the evening the generator would start and work from 6 to 9 in the evening. This was a village with no electricity. Then the music started and the children danced with us. They all laughed as we showed them the macarena. After the music stopped , our guides made us supper. The children watched as we masticated, giggling and commenting on those funny Europeans. An evening activity was planned for them by the village: many of them gathered in one room to watch a movie. Although many of the villages we have visited have dirt floors and thatched roofs, there is always a satellite dish. This seems a bizarre contrast to their very simple life. After sleeping in dormitory style accomodations with hard mattresses dividers constructed of bamboo and protected from mosquitos by nets, we awoke to a wonderful breakfast made by our giudes. This was followed by a 2 hour hike down the mountain and then a three hour kayak down the Khan River. We arrived back in Luang Prabang by about 3 pm tired but happy.

Arieh here. Today we returned to Luang Prabang after a two-day hiking and kayak trip. The first day was 15 KM of hiking mostly in hot sun. It was kind of tough on Val but she made it to 800 metres above sea level from our 400 metre startng point. We then went down to about 500 and stopped at a village for overnight.

The village, unlike the others we have seen around LP, was very UNtouristed. No roads in; only paths. They had electricity with a generator that ran from 6 to 9 PM only. Many of the villagers were crowded around one of the big TVs in the village watching a movie. Payment for them was $0.05 per person. We actually were able to have a "private" shower (unlike the villagers who shower around an outdoor pump). The water was cold and came out of a tube. It was actually really quite enjoyable after the 15 KM of hiking. Sleeping was dorm style (Val and I had our own 2-person section) and with mosquito nets. The two guides (for 6 of us) carried the food and extra water. We carried water and sleepng bags and our day pack. The guides cooked. The second day was spent walking about 2 hours and then kayaking and swimming for about 3 hours. Very shallow river and very little current helping us. Hard on the arms today, but not very strenuous on legs or heart. A good day and back to our hotel by about 3:30 PM.

The other 3 people were actually good folk from Toronto and Switzerland (Mother, daughter and friend). We then met for coffee at 6 PM at a great bakery and Val and I received good pointers about India from the daughter and friend.