Yangon, Myanmar or Rangoon, Burma
April 5, 2007
Val here.
This is my third time to Burma - now Myanmar.The vision of the temples gloriously beautiful with their gold stupas and beautiful processions have always remained with me. Let me explain.
The Shwedagon Temple in Yangon (Rangoon).
There is no place like it on earth. The Shwedagon is the most extraordinary and beautiful living temple in the world. It is a Buddhist temple, revered by the people that surround it. Our taxi driver bows as he drives up to its entrance. Some families who come to pray, dress up for the day, bring lunches to picnic on the marble floor among the small temples facing the large golden stupa. That way they can spend many hours chanting and meditating, their children and extended family in tow.
We walk up the 40 or 50 stairs that lead to the temple. The stairway is covered with an ornate carved teakwood canopy. On either side of the stairs small shops display sparkling small paper umbrellas, strings of fragrant jasmine, flower wreaths, baskets of fruit, incense sticks, metal bells, and other treasures to give to Buddha in respect.
Once you ascend, you arrive at a huge and gorgeous marble stage, at its centre a golden stupa. All around you - left, right, up, down, is a holy statue of Buddha, a small temple, a raised platform with Buddha statues surrounded by an electronic aura of lights. And everywhere - devotees. People walking, talking, praying, chanting, kneeling, meditating. Processions of men and women dressed in colourful garb hold princes on their shoulders - the young men who will be monks.. Family and friends holding golden chalices walk in front and behind the young men. The soon-to-be monk is dressed and crowned in goldand carried on the shoulders of his relatives, protected from the sun by a colourful paper umbrella. This mirrors the life of Buddha: the young man was a prince who saw the poverty around him and left his home to ultimately give up all material things and reach enlightenment. So these young boys will give up all material posessions - at least for a while - and go to a monestary to meditate and study.
Look in another direction and you see families dressed in longyis and shirts or blouses arranging themselves for a family photo in front of their favorite stupa or statue. As you walk in a clockwise direction (your right side faces the most auspicious part of the temple) you hear voices and hear men and women chanting; they are gathered on a raised floor near a golden Buddha. Continue walking and try to keep up with an old monk doing his seemingly endless walk around the golden stupa. We watch groups of people washing the god-statue of their Buddha - the one in the part of the temple that corresponds to the day of their birth. They hope to gain a long life.
The sound is muted - perhaps because of the temple's size or its marble floor, - or maybe because Buddha would not hear if there is too much noise. A young monk befriends us on our second journey through the Shwedagon - this time at sunset. He takes us to see how the diamond at the top of the stupa has a different colour depending where you stand. He explains how some Buddha statues have more power than others to protect and ensure good health.
As we move through the temple people greet us, but mostly they are intent on praying, bowing to Buddha, meditating and celebrating this wonderful, festive spiritual retreat. The Shwedagon is the place where spirituality is palpable, where people's faces soften and look younger despite their difficult lives. A wonderful place! The fellow below is trying to blind himself out of devotion by staring at the sun.
The Botataung Paya. This temple has the gold stupa as well - but has been rebuilt after being destroyed by the British during W. W. 2. Inside the hollow stupa the corridors are lined with tiny mirrored tiles and display cases filled with statues of Buddha as well as other treasures. The highlight is the relic of Buddhas's hair at its centre. Every so often there is a mirror of about 2 metres near the floor and a devotee is meditating there.
There are several side statues and small temples and rooms in the compound. Most exciting for me, though, was a pool of turtles. A vendor sells food and leaves for people to buy to feed the turtles. quite a surprise in a temple!
There is one other Yangon temple well worth mentioning. In the centre of a traffic circle is the Sule Pagoda. It is lovely inside - but the fact that it is in the middle of the town and the traffic and dusty buildings surround it makes it quite outstanding. Another tribute to Buddha set where any traffic going by will be aware of its stature.
Yangon Synagogue
Built about 150 years ago. I need to find out more information, including the name! Still about 50 Jews in Yangon but getting smaller all the time. The "Trustee" of the synagogue is a nice man with a son in Yeshiva in NY and two daughters of marrying age. Anyone interested? He also runs a tour company from Yangon and NY.
April 5, 2007
Val here.
This is my third time to Burma - now Myanmar.The vision of the temples gloriously beautiful with their gold stupas and beautiful processions have always remained with me. Let me explain.
The Shwedagon Temple in Yangon (Rangoon).
There is no place like it on earth. The Shwedagon is the most extraordinary and beautiful living temple in the world. It is a Buddhist temple, revered by the people that surround it. Our taxi driver bows as he drives up to its entrance. Some families who come to pray, dress up for the day, bring lunches to picnic on the marble floor among the small temples facing the large golden stupa. That way they can spend many hours chanting and meditating, their children and extended family in tow.
We walk up the 40 or 50 stairs that lead to the temple. The stairway is covered with an ornate carved teakwood canopy. On either side of the stairs small shops display sparkling small paper umbrellas, strings of fragrant jasmine, flower wreaths, baskets of fruit, incense sticks, metal bells, and other treasures to give to Buddha in respect.
Once you ascend, you arrive at a huge and gorgeous marble stage, at its centre a golden stupa. All around you - left, right, up, down, is a holy statue of Buddha, a small temple, a raised platform with Buddha statues surrounded by an electronic aura of lights. And everywhere - devotees. People walking, talking, praying, chanting, kneeling, meditating. Processions of men and women dressed in colourful garb hold princes on their shoulders - the young men who will be monks.. Family and friends holding golden chalices walk in front and behind the young men. The soon-to-be monk is dressed and crowned in goldand carried on the shoulders of his relatives, protected from the sun by a colourful paper umbrella. This mirrors the life of Buddha: the young man was a prince who saw the poverty around him and left his home to ultimately give up all material things and reach enlightenment. So these young boys will give up all material posessions - at least for a while - and go to a monestary to meditate and study.
Look in another direction and you see families dressed in longyis and shirts or blouses arranging themselves for a family photo in front of their favorite stupa or statue. As you walk in a clockwise direction (your right side faces the most auspicious part of the temple) you hear voices and hear men and women chanting; they are gathered on a raised floor near a golden Buddha. Continue walking and try to keep up with an old monk doing his seemingly endless walk around the golden stupa. We watch groups of people washing the god-statue of their Buddha - the one in the part of the temple that corresponds to the day of their birth. They hope to gain a long life.
The sound is muted - perhaps because of the temple's size or its marble floor, - or maybe because Buddha would not hear if there is too much noise. A young monk befriends us on our second journey through the Shwedagon - this time at sunset. He takes us to see how the diamond at the top of the stupa has a different colour depending where you stand. He explains how some Buddha statues have more power than others to protect and ensure good health.
As we move through the temple people greet us, but mostly they are intent on praying, bowing to Buddha, meditating and celebrating this wonderful, festive spiritual retreat. The Shwedagon is the place where spirituality is palpable, where people's faces soften and look younger despite their difficult lives. A wonderful place! The fellow below is trying to blind himself out of devotion by staring at the sun.
The Botataung Paya. This temple has the gold stupa as well - but has been rebuilt after being destroyed by the British during W. W. 2. Inside the hollow stupa the corridors are lined with tiny mirrored tiles and display cases filled with statues of Buddha as well as other treasures. The highlight is the relic of Buddhas's hair at its centre. Every so often there is a mirror of about 2 metres near the floor and a devotee is meditating there.
There are several side statues and small temples and rooms in the compound. Most exciting for me, though, was a pool of turtles. A vendor sells food and leaves for people to buy to feed the turtles. quite a surprise in a temple!
There is one other Yangon temple well worth mentioning. In the centre of a traffic circle is the Sule Pagoda. It is lovely inside - but the fact that it is in the middle of the town and the traffic and dusty buildings surround it makes it quite outstanding. Another tribute to Buddha set where any traffic going by will be aware of its stature.
Yangon Synagogue
Built about 150 years ago. I need to find out more information, including the name! Still about 50 Jews in Yangon but getting smaller all the time. The "Trustee" of the synagogue is a nice man with a son in Yeshiva in NY and two daughters of marrying age. Anyone interested? He also runs a tour company from Yangon and NY.
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