INDIA: Varanasi

Sitting here, in Rishikesh, at a roof top restaurant overlooking the Ganges river, I immediately think of a few days before when I was in the holy city of Varanasi - considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in existence. Although just a few days ago, it feels like I was on a different planet. I remembered thinking while I was in Varanasi that the entire country of India is a different planet or least it could be. You could land in India with a spaceship and not be the least bit surprised. I now realize while sitting in Rishikesh that it is not India but specifically Varanasi is the 'other planet'. Varanasi and any city like Varanasi. Although, I doubt there is one.

I have to apologize, for this post initially was not supposed to be a tiresome rant about Varanasi, as you will see, but a lovely description of my immediate rebirth upon entering the cool (only 30 degrees) hills of Rishikesh. I decided that neglecting to describe the senses and feelings that I had while being in Varanasi would be self-destructive. I cannot hold in the hatred I felt for that city.

I surprise myself with such a word yet the feeling is true and maybe mutual. I can't speak for Varanasi but I feel she doesn't like me much judging by my bowel movements while I was there. Many talk about Varanasi as this spiritual, holy place with a sense of foreboding. The most common feeling I had was disgust. How can people let their holy river get so polluted? How could millions respect their dead by burning them next to the filth that is the alleyways of Old Varanasi? How can a rotting body on the side of the river bank completely abused as a tourist photo-shoot be considered holy? I have heard that Varanasi holds this limbo position between the real world and the dream world. Is it not just the mythical hell on Earth with that never ending fire and revolving door of bodies? Now that is a bit harsh.



There is something to be said about that limbo position. This IS the real world. Period. That city exists and I went there, Smelled her, tasted her, and hated her. That is truly what makes Varanasi so infamous. The holiest city for the Hindu people and I am disgusted with it. It is not that I am so much disgusted by the idea of thousands of bodies being cremated beside a river and beside me, it is many other things. I am disgusted with the garbage spewed carelessly all over the streets and the "holy" cows that walk the alleys eating garbage and releasing the most unnatural splashes of feces everywhere. How do you carry your recently deceased family member through these filthy alleyways to the dead river Ganges so polluted it lacks sufficient oxygen?

If you weren't convinced yet of such a wonderful place the heat of Varanasi might sway your vote. Varanasi's over 40 degree heat makes your brain sweat while abusing your nostrils by baking piles of dung and garbage. As you walk through these tight alleyways trying to avoid both types of piles, you must also avoid other people, bikes, motorbikes, cows, and harassing shopkeepers who offer everything they sell in one long breath. It is also unnerving when these shopkeepers get right into your face and you can see their red stained teeth from the Paan leaf that they chew. This disgusting habit leaves red spit stains all over the streets. All of this in the sweltering heat. A heat that I have never felt before and hope to never again.



There is an alternative to paan for the desperate people of Varanasi. You can get a small packet of some kind of chewing tobacco readily available at any shop. This tiny pack of tobacco packs a big punch. I have no idea what it does to your body or mind but it definitely affects mine. These people put this stuff in their mouths and then attempt to talk - attempt to talk to me. I just feel like being the motherly figure and refusing to talk to them until they remove that crap from their mouth. This is how they live and function. Surprisingly, they don't just do it to annoy me.

Furthermore, all this magic was magnified by the simple fact that I was sick. I was exhausted, ate very little, and took frequent trips to the squat toilette. The heat amplified my sickly state and completely drained any hope of enjoying even a tiny bit of Varanasi. I dreaded leaving the guest house for the madness of the street. I would only consider going out at night when the beating sun disappeared and the world seemed a bit more sane. My diet consisted of toast and bananas bought from the guest house restaurant. I developed a paranoia towards any other food in Varanasi.

Varanasi epitomizes the word 'extreme'.

Now, while in Rishikesh, I am looking at the same river Ganges yet I see life. I want to swim in its holy waters. I want to wash Varanasi from my body in the Mother Ganges.

Somewhat dramatic but you get the point.

- Break -

I have now washed for the first time in the holy waters of the Mother Ganges and I feel great! I woke up this morning from the first good nights sleep in two weeks and I am looking forward to a day filled with very little. India is again exciting for me. Varanasi attempted to obliterate my desire to be in India by smacking my senses against a rock. I have now felt the cool, clean waters of the Ganges and am rejuvenated towards the rest of my trip. (The sweet mangoes may also have contributed to this rejuvenation).

Varanasi is an interesting place as you might have gathered. At the same time, not going to Varanasi would have left me without such an experience. If you go to India, Varanasi is a must. I will never forget that city.