So now it is the three of us that arrived in Pokara to the nightmare of the bus park with all the yelling totes trying to get us to use their taxis and hotels. They also used the selling tool that there were few taxis on the road because of the impending strike. We just ignored them and ended up walking a good 40 minutes, with our bags on, to North Lakeside. To give you some orientation, Pokara is situated on the beautiful Fewa Lake and the tourist area is Lakeside. North Lakeside is closer to the actual Lake and much quieter.
We found this cozy guesthouse called, Pokara Quiet Home. It was one floor, consisting of 5 rentable rooms and another room for the family of four to sleep. Every night in Pokara was spent at the Quiet Home. It became almost a family. The other people staying there were all our friends and often stayed at Quiet Home until they left Pokara or went on a trek. The son of the family had his birthday while we were staying there and we were invited to the big party. This consisted of a big feast cooked on an open fire outside the small kitchen, a piñata that two of the tourist-guest made out of paper mache, and lots of children running around. As per usual, the piñata almost caused numerous injuries.
Digressing a little, the whole talk of no taxis because of the strike was accurate and the next day the strike (Bunda) began and no taxis or any motorized vehicles were allowed on the roads. This strike was called by the Maoists who represent the peoples desire for changed government and, as the name probably already declared, a more socialist Nepal. These activist were fighting the good fight against the government and demanding change for the people they represent. In reality, the Maoists are a group of thugs that bring in uneducated, easily manipulated people from poor villages and give them sticks to march around chanting. Most of the shops in Pokara did not want to close. They were forced to close their doors for the stick wielding Maoist would come harass or hurt them. Since tourists still needed to eat at restaurants, as we could not cook for ourselves (technically), most of the restaurants took a half-open stance. Either one could sit inside with the doors closed, one could sit away from the main road, or they left the shudder half open and closed it for any trouble. This was the same for shopping. Many shops would leave the shudder open a bit. If you knocked they would let you in. Anytime Maoists came strolling down the street everything closed up tight. The bunda continued for 6 days. Produce started to get expensive for the locals as nothing but police and Maoists were permitted to use the roads.
Despite the negatives, it was an interesting experience. We got to experience Pokara without the cars and trucks ruining the mood. Many children off from school played soccer and cricket in the middle of the streets. There were bicycles everywhere and smiling people. There was, unfortunately, lots of Ox feces in the streets as the Ox/water buffalo were allowed to roam free to graze. The shops were also permitted to be open between 6-8 pm. This is when the main part of Lakeside came alive. Yet all would stop during the day when the Maoists marched down the street. Most of them holding sticks but some of the biggest bullies held iron poles that they would drag to intimidate. The day before the strike ended, the shopkeepers of Pokara held there own demonstration, marching down the main street. The police stopped them and the Maoists came running to start a counter demonstration. The two groups were separated by 100 metres and a lot of police. It ended as quickly as it started but these uprisings from shopkeepers happened across the country and probably resulted in the stoppage of the strike the next day.
Life certainly continued despite the strike. One day, we bought a watermelon and some vegetables and bread and rented a boat to take out into the lake. The lake is so peaceful. We had my little speaker playing Bob Marley and we sat in the sun and swam in the water. Our little picnic lunch was delicious.
The strike made us be less active. I was interested in rafting but that was stopped. I wanted to do a motorcycle course but that too was on "strike". We took to reading, eating, and sitting. Three great pastimes. We discovered, thanks to our friend Etai, the best meal in Pokara. In Nepal, they eat Dal Bhat. That is watery lentils, veg curry and rice. This place called Sweet and Sour served the best Dal Bhat which also included this amazingly delicious chili sauce. The locals eat with their hands. This is not unlike India but I felt more comfortable in Nepal. Anytime I would order Dal Bhat, which was almost everyday, I would eat it with my hands. It felt more natural eating that meal with my hands. The interesting thing is that now that I am in India and ordering similar meals, I have no urge to eat with my hands. Must have been Nepal's charm. I would also eat this meal in the morning. Around 10am I would head over to sweet and sour and meet Nicole, Randy, and Etai for a morning Dal Bhat. After stuffing ourselves because of the refills, I would walk 20 metres to the lake and jump in for a swim.
We also did some wondering in Pokara and around. We went to this town, Serenkot, situated on top of a mountain. Here, if you are lucky, you can see a clear view of the entire Annapurna range. We were lucky. It was crystal clear. Although we didn't know it at the time, we would trek right into those mountains.
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